How to Solder

How to Solder

First a few safety precautions:

  • Never touch the element or tip of the soldering iron.
    They are very hot (about 400°C) and will give you a nasty burn.
  • Take great care to avoid touching the mains flex with the tip of the iron.
    The iron should have a heatproof flex for extra protection. An ordinary plastic flex will melt immediately if touched by a hot iron and there is a serious risk of burns and electric shock.
  • Always return the soldering iron to its stand when not in use.
    Never put it down on your workbench, even for a moment!
  • Work in a well-ventilated area.
    The smoke formed as you melt solder is mostly from the flux and quite irritating. Avoid breathing it by keeping you head to the side of, not above, your work.
  • Wash your hands after using solder.
    Solder contains lead which is a poisonous metal.

Preparing the soldering iron:

  • Place the soldering iron in its stand and plug in.
    The iron will take a few minutes to reach its operating temperature of about 400°C.
  • Dampen the sponge in the stand.
    The best way to do this is to lift it out the stand and hold it under a cold tap for a moment, then squeeze to remove excess water. It should be damp, not dripping wet.
  • Wait a few minutes for the soldering iron to warm up.
    You can check if it is ready by trying to melt a little solder on the tip.
  • Wipe the tip of the iron on the damp sponge.
    This will clean the tip.
  • Melt a little solder on the tip of the iron.
    This is called 'tinning' and it will help the heat to flow from the iron's tip to the joint. It only needs to be done when you plug in the iron, and occasionally while soldering if you need to wipe the tip clean on the sponge.

You are now ready to start soldering:

Good and bad soldered joints

  • Hold the soldering iron like a pen, near the base of the handle.
    Imagine you are going to write your name! Remember to never touch the hot element or tip.
  • Touch the soldering iron onto the joint to be made.
    Make sure it touches both the component lead and the track. Hold the tip there for a few seconds and...
  • Feed a little solder onto the joint.
    It should flow smoothly onto the lead and track to form a volcano shape as shown in the diagram. Apply the solder to the joint, not the iron.
  • Remove the solder, then the iron, while keeping the joint still.
    Allow the joint a few seconds to cool before you move the circuit board.
  • Inspect the joint closely.
    It should look shiny and have a 'volcano' shape. If not, you will need to reheat it and feed in a little more solder. This time ensure that both the lead and track are heated fully before applying solder.

Crocodile clip, photograph © Rapid Electronics

Using a heat sink

Some components, such as transistors, can be damaged by heat when soldering so if you are not an expert it is wise to use a heat sink clipped to the lead between the joint and the component body. You can buy a special tool, but a standard crocodile clip works just as well and is cheaper.

Electronics Projects

 

Also See: Construction | Tools | Soldering | 555 timer circuits | Project books

Kits for all the projects are available from RSH Electronics.

Project kits are available!
Kits for all the projects on this website are available from RSH Electronics.

Click here for RSH Electronics

If you are new to electronics this is an ideal way to be sure you have the correct parts.

A brief description of the each project is given, but for full details click on the title. If you are looking for an easy project suitable for a beginner you might like to try the Flashing LED or Dummy Alarm.

The Simple Component and Continuity Tester is also very easy.

In addition to the web pages, all projects are available as PDF files to download for convenient printing onto A4 paper.

To view and print PDF files you need an Acrobat Reader which may be downloaded free for Windows, Mac, RISC OS, or UNIX/Linux computers. If you are not sure which type of computer you have it is probably Windows.

These projects are provided in good faith but no responsibilty is accepted for their accuracy or suitability for any purpose - you use them entirely at your own risk! If you find an error in a project please tell me so that I can correct it as soon as possible.


Dummy Alarm Dummy Alarm
This project makes a superbright LED flash briefly once every 5 seconds to imitate the indicator light of a real alarm. The circuit is designed to use very little current to prolong battery life so that it can be left on permanently.

This is a simple project, ideal for a beginner.


Quiz
This project can be used for a quiz with up to 4 contestants (or teams). Each contestant has a trigger push-switch and LED. When a trigger switch is pressed it lights the corresponding LED, sounds the bleeper and prevents the other trigger switches from working - therefore showing which contestant was the first to press their switch.

Traffic Light Traffic Light
This project operates red, amber and green LEDs in the correct sequence for a single UK traffic light. The time taken for the complete red - red & amber - green - amber sequence can be varied from about 7s to about 2½ minutes. A 4017 counter is used to produce the traffic light sequence and this project could be adapted to give a different light sequence if you wish.

Dice Dice
Press the push switch to 'throw' the dice: this makes the circuit rapidly cycle through the dice numbers so that an effectively random dice number is displayed by the LEDs when the push switch is released.

Lighthouse Model Lighthouse
This project was designed for a model lighthouse to flash a lamp or LED in a simple sequence: two flashes of 2s with a short gap of 1s, followed by a longer gap of 5s before repeating the sequence. A 4017 counter is used to produce the flash sequence and this project includes information on how to adapt it to give a different flash sequence.

Crocodile clips attached to a signal diode Simple Component and Continuity Tester
This simple project can be used to test components, circuit board tracks, wires and connections.

Flashing LED
This simple project makes a good low-cost first project to check your soldering skills and learn to identify common components. The LED flashes at about 3Hz (3 flashes per second).
Simple Electronic 'Lock'
There are six (or more) push switches. To 'unlock' you must press all the correct ones at the same time, but not press any of the cancel switches. Pressing just one cancel switch will prevent the circuit unlocking. When the circuit unlocks it actually just turns on an LED for about one second, but it is intended to be adapted to turn on a relay which could be used to switch on another circuit. Most relays cost about £2 to £3 extra.
Adjustable Timer
This circuit starts timing when switched on. A green LED lights to show that timing is in progress. When the time period is over the green LED turns off, a red LED turns on and a bleeper sounds. The time period is set by a variable resistor and it can be adjusted from 1 to 10 minutes (approximately). It could be used to set a time limit when playing games or as an egg-timer in the kitchen.
Light-Sensitive Alarm
The circuit detects a sudden shadow falling on a light-sensor and sounds a bleeper for a short time (adjustable). Normal lighting can be used, but the circuit will work best if a beam of light is arranged to fall on the light-sensor. Breaking this beam will then cause the bleeper to sound.
Christmas Tree Decoration Christmas Decoration
18 LEDs flash at three different rates and you can use these to create a decoration of your choice. A template for a Christmas tree can be downloaded. The circuit is kept simple (and low cost) by using the 4060B IC which is a counter and oscillator (clock) in one package. The circuit requires a 9V supply, such as a PP3 battery.

Also see the 'Random' Flasher for 8 LEDs project.


Model Railway Signal
This signal is controlled automatically by a passing train fitted with a magnet. It can also be manually set to red or green by pressing the switches. Trains will automatically stop at the red signal.
Model Railway Level Crossing Lights
The level crossing warning lights are switched on automatically as a train approaches. First an amber light shows, then two red lights flash until the train has passed the crossing.
Network Lead Tester
This was designed for confirming the continuity and correct wiring of computer network leads, but it can be adapted to check any lead with up to 8 wires by using appropriate connectors.
'Random' Flasher for 8 LEDs
This project uses a 4026 counter and display driver IC to flash eight LEDs in an apparently random manner. It can be used to create a display of your choice.
Heart-shaped badge Heart-shaped Badge
The badge consists of eight LEDs arranged in the shape of a heart. One LED is lit at a time and this 'chases' round the shape. It would be easy to adapt this project to create other shapes with the eight LEDs.

Valentine Heart Valentine Heart
18 LEDs flash at three different rates and you can use these to create an eye-catching Valentine Heart for that special person! A template for the heart shape can be downloaded. The circuit is kept simple (and low cost) by using the 4060B IC which is a counter and oscillator (clock) in one package. The circuit requires a 9V supply, such as a PP3 battery.

This new project uses the same circuit as the popular Christmas Decoration

Power Supplies

 

Types | Dual supplies | Transformer | Rectifier | Smoothing | Regulator

Next Page: Transducers
Also See: AC and DC | Diodes | Capacitors

Types of Power Supply

There are many types of power supply. Most are designed to convert high voltage AC mains electricity to a suitable low voltage supply for electronics circuits and other devices. A power supply can by broken down into a series of blocks, each of which performs a particular function.

For example a 5V regulated supply:

Block Diagram of a Regulated Power Supply System

Each of the blocks is described in more detail below:

  • Transformer - steps down high voltage AC mains to low voltage AC.
  • Rectifier - converts AC to DC, but the DC output is varying.
  • Smoothing - smooths the DC from varying greatly to a small ripple.
  • Regulator - eliminates ripple by setting DC output to a fixed voltage.
Power supplies made from these blocks are described below with a circuit diagram and a graph of their output:

Dual Supplies

Dual power supply Some electronic circuits require a power supply with positive and negative outputs as well as zero volts (0V). This is called a 'dual supply' because it is like two ordinary supplies connected together as shown in the diagram.

Dual supplies have three outputs, for example a ±9V supply has +9V, 0V and -9V outputs.


Transformer only

AC power supply, transformer only

The low voltage AC output is suitable for lamps, heaters and special AC motors. It is not suitable for electronic circuits unless they include a rectifier and a smoothing capacitor.

Further information: Transformer


Transformer + Rectifier

DC power supply, transformer + rectifier

The varying DC output is suitable for lamps, heaters and standard motors. It is not suitable for electronic circuits unless they include a smoothing capacitor.

Further information: Transformer | Rectifier


Transformer + Rectifier + Smoothing

Smooth DC power supply, transformer + rectifier + smoothing

The smooth DC output has a small ripple. It is suitable for most electronic circuits.

Further information: Transformer | Rectifier | Smoothing


Transformer + Rectifier + Smoothing + Regulator

Regulated DC power supply, transformer + rectifier + smoothing + regulator

The regulated DC output is very smooth with no ripple. It is suitable for all electronic circuits.

Further information: Transformer | Rectifier | Smoothing | Regulator


Transformer

transformer symbol
Transformer
circuit symbol
Transformer, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Transformer
Photograph © Rapid Electronics

There is more information
about transformers on the
Electronics in Meccano
website.
Transformers convert AC electricity from one voltage to another with little loss of power. Transformers work only with AC and this is one of the reasons why mains electricity is AC.

Step-up transformers increase voltage, step-down transformers reduce voltage. Most power supplies use a step-down transformer to reduce the dangerously high mains voltage (230V in UK) to a safer low voltage.

The input coil is called the primary and the output coil is called the secondary. There is no electrical connection between the two coils, instead they are linked by an alternating magnetic field created in the soft-iron core of the transformer. The two lines in the middle of the circuit symbol represent the core.

Transformers waste very little power so the power out is (almost) equal to the power in. Note that as voltage is stepped down current is stepped up.

The ratio of the number of turns on each coil, called the turns ratio, determines the ratio of the voltages. A step-down transformer has a large number of turns on its primary (input) coil which is connected to the high voltage mains supply, and a small number of turns on its secondary (output) coil to give a low output voltage.

turns ratio = Vp = Np and power out = power in
Vs Ns Vs × Is = Vp × Ip
Vp = primary (input) voltage
Np = number of turns on primary coil
Ip = primary (input) current
Vs = secondary (output) voltage
Ns = number of turns on secondary coil
Is = secondary (output) current


Rectifier

There is more information
about rectifiers on the
Electronics in Meccano
website.
There are several ways of connecting diodes to make a rectifier to convert AC to DC. The bridge rectifier is the most important and it produces full-wave varying DC. A full-wave rectifier can also be made from just two diodes if a centre-tap transformer is used, but this method is rarely used now that diodes are cheaper. A single diode can be used as a rectifier but it only uses the positive (+) parts of the AC wave to produce half-wave varying DC.

Bridge rectifier

A bridge rectifier can be made using four individual diodes, but it is also available in special packages containing the four diodes required. It is called a full-wave rectifier because it uses all the AC wave (both positive and negative sections). 1.4V is used up in the bridge rectifier because each diode uses 0.7V when conducting and there are always two diodes conducting, as shown in the diagram below. Bridge rectifiers are rated by the maximum current they can pass and the maximum reverse voltage they can withstand (this must be at least three times the supply RMS voltage so the rectifier can withstand the peak voltages). Please see the Diodes page for more details, including pictures of bridge rectifiers.
Operation of a Bridge Rectifier Full-wave Varying DC
Bridge rectifier
Alternate pairs of diodes conduct, changing over
the connections so the alternating directions of
AC are converted to the one direction of DC.
Output: full-wave varying DC
(using all the AC wave)

Single diode rectifier

A single diode can be used as a rectifier but this produces half-wave varying DC which has gaps when the AC is negative. It is hard to smooth this sufficiently well to supply electronic circuits unless they require a very small current so the smoothing capacitor does not significantly discharge during the gaps. Please see the Diodes page for some examples of rectifier diodes.
Single diode rectifier Half-wave Varying DC
Single diode rectifier Output: half-wave varying DC
(using only half the AC wave)


Smoothing

Smoothing is performed by a large value electrolytic capacitor connected across the DC supply to act as a reservoir, supplying current to the output when the varying DC voltage from the rectifier is falling. The diagram shows the unsmoothed varying DC (dotted line) and the smoothed DC (solid line). The capacitor charges quickly near the peak of the varying DC, and then discharges as it supplies current to the output.

Smoothing

Note that smoothing significantly increases the average DC voltage to almost the peak value (1.4 × RMS value). For example 6V RMS AC is rectified to full wave DC of about 4.6V RMS (1.4V is lost in the bridge rectifier), with smoothing this increases to almost the peak value giving 1.4 × 4.6 = 6.4V smooth DC.

Smoothing is not perfect due to the capacitor voltage falling a little as it discharges, giving a small ripple voltage. For many circuits a ripple which is 10% of the supply voltage is satisfactory and the equation below gives the required value for the smoothing capacitor. A larger capacitor will give less ripple. The capacitor value must be doubled when smoothing half-wave DC.

There is more information
about smoothing on the
Electronics in Meccano
website.
Smoothing capacitor for 10% ripple, C = 5 × Io
Vs × f
C = smoothing capacitance in farads (F)
Io = output current from the supply in amps (A)
Vs = supply voltage in volts (V), this is the peak value of the unsmoothed DC
f = frequency of the AC supply in hertz (Hz), 50Hz in the UK


Regulator

Voltage regulator Voltage regulator, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Voltage regulator
Photograph © Rapid Electronics

Voltage regulator ICs are available with fixed (typically 5, 12 and 15V) or variable output voltages. They are also rated by the maximum current they can pass. Negative voltage regulators are available, mainly for use in dual supplies. Most regulators include some automatic protection from excessive current ('overload protection') and overheating ('thermal protection').

Many of the fixed voltage regulator ICs have 3 leads and look like power transistors, such as the 7805 +5V 1A regulator shown on the right. They include a hole for attaching a heatsink if necessary.

Please see the Electronics in Meccano website for more information about voltage regulator ICs.

Zener diode
zener diode
a = anode, k = cathode
Zener diode circuit

Zener diode regulator

For low current power supplies a simple voltage regulator can be made with a resistor and a zener diode connected in reverse as shown in the diagram. Zener diodes are rated by their breakdown voltage Vz and maximum power Pz (typically 400mW or 1.3W).

The resistor limits the current (like an LED resistor). The current through the resistor is constant, so when there is no output current all the current flows through the zener diode and its power rating Pz must be large enough to withstand this.

Please see the Diodes page for more information about zener diodes.

Choosing a zener diode and resistor:

  1. The zener voltage Vz is the output voltage required
  2. The input voltage Vs must be a few volts greater than Vz
    (this is to allow for small fluctuations in Vs due to ripple)
  3. The maximum current Imax is the output current required plus 10%
  4. The zener power Pz is determined by the maximum current: Pz > Vz × Imax
  5. The resistor resistance: R = (Vs - Vz) / Imax
  6. The resistor power rating: P > (Vs - Vz) × Imax
Example: output voltage required is 5V, output current required is 60mA.
There is more information
about regulators on the
Electronics in Meccano
website.
  1. Vz = 4.7V (nearest value available)
  2. Vs = 8V (it must be a few volts greater than Vz)
  3. Imax = 66mA (output current plus 10%)
  4. Pz > 4.7V × 66mA = 310mW, choose Pz = 400mW
  5. R = (8V - 4.7V) / 66mA = 0.05kohm = 50ohm, choose R = 47ohm
  6. Resistor power rating P > (8V - 4.7V) × 66mA = 218mW, choose P = 0.5W

Oscilloscopes (CROs)

 

Setting up | Connecting | Measuring | Timebase | Y amplifier | AC/GND/DC

Next Page: Power Supplies
Also See: AC, DC and Electrical Signals

oscilloscope symbol
Circuit symbol for
an oscilloscope
Oscilloscope, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Cathode Ray Oscilloscope (CRO)
Photograph © Rapid Electronics

An oscilloscope is a test instrument which allows you to look at the 'shape' of electrical signals by displaying a graph of voltage against time on its screen. It is like a voltmeter with the valuable extra function of showing how the voltage varies with time. A graticule with a 1cm grid enables you to take measurements of voltage and time from the screen.

The graph, usually called the trace, is drawn by a beam of electrons striking the phosphor coating of the screen making it emit light, usually green or blue. This is similar to the way a television picture is produced.

Oscilloscopes contain a vacuum tube with a cathode (negative electrode) at one end to emit electrons and an anode (positive electrode) to accelerate them so they move rapidly down the tube to the screen. This arrangement is called an electron gun. The tube also contains electrodes to deflect the electron beam up/down and left/right.

The electrons are called cathode rays because they are emitted by the cathode and this gives the oscilloscope its full name of cathode ray oscilloscope or CRO.

A dual trace oscilloscope can display two traces on the screen, allowing you to easily compare the input and output of an amplifier for example. It is well worth paying the modest extra cost to have this facility.

Precautions

  • An oscilloscope should be handled gently to protect its fragile (and expensive) vacuum tube.
  • Oscilloscopes use high voltages to create the electron beam and these remain for some time after switching off - for your own safety do not attempt to examine the inside of an oscilloscope!


Setting up an oscilloscope

Oscilloscopes are complex instruments with many controls and they require some care to set up and use successfully. It is quite easy to 'lose' the trace off the screen if controls are set wrongly!

There is some variation in the arrangement and labelling of the many controls so the following instuctions may need to be adapted for your instrument.

    Oscilloscope trace
    This is what you should see
    after setting up, when there
    is no input signal connected

  1. Switch on the oscilloscope to warm up (it takes a minute or two).
  2. Do not connect the input lead at this stage.
  3. Set the AC/GND/DC switch (by the Y INPUT) to DC.
  4. Set the SWP/X-Y switch to SWP (sweep).
  5. Set Trigger Level to AUTO.
  6. Set Trigger Source to INT (internal, the y input).
  7. Set the Y AMPLIFIER to 5V/cm (a moderate value).
  8. Set the TIMEBASE to 10ms/cm (a moderate speed).
  9. Turn the timebase VARIABLE control to 1 or CAL.
  10. Adjust Y SHIFT (up/down) and X SHIFT (left/right) to give a trace across the middle of the screen, like the picture.
  11. Adjust INTENSITY (brightness) and FOCUS to give a bright, sharp trace.
  12. The oscilloscope is now ready to use!
    Connecting the input lead is described in the next section.
Further information on the controls: Timebase | Y amplifier | AC/GND/DC switch

Connecting an oscilloscope

co-axial lead
Construction of a co-axial lead
Oscilloscope probe
Oscilloscope lead and probes kit
Photograph © Rapid Electronics
The Y INPUT lead to an oscilloscope should be a co-axial lead and the diagram shows its construction. The central wire carries the signal and the screen is connected to earth (0V) to shield the signal from electrical interference (usually called noise).

Most oscilloscopes have a BNC socket for the y input and the lead is connected with a push and twist action, to disconnect you need to twist and pull. Oscilloscopes used in schools may have red and black 4mm sockets so that ordinary, unscreened, 4mm plug leads can be used if necessary.

Professionals use a specially designed lead and probes kit for best results with high frequency signals and when testing high resistance circuits, but this is not essential for simpler work at audio frequencies (up to 20kHz).

An oscilloscope is connected like a voltmeter but you must be aware that the screen (black) connection of the input lead is connected to mains earth at the oscilloscope! This means it must be connected to earth or 0V on the circuit being tested.


Oscilloscope trace of AC
The trace of an AC signal
with the oscilloscope
controls correctly set

Obtaining a clear and stable trace

Once you have connected the oscilloscope to the circuit you wish to test you will need to adjust the controls to obtain a clear and stable trace on the screen:
  • The Y AMPLIFIER (VOLTS/CM) control determines the height of the trace. Choose a setting so the trace occupies at least half the screen height, but does not disappear off the screen.
  • The TIMEBASE (TIME/CM) control determines the rate at which the dot sweeps across the screen. Choose a setting so the trace shows at least one cycle of the signal across the screen.
    Note that a steady DC input signal gives a horizontal line trace for which the timebase setting is not critical.
  • The TRIGGER control is usually best left set to AUTO.
If you are using an oscilloscope for the first time it is best to start with an easy signal such as the output from an AC power pack set to about 4V.

Further information on the controls: Timebase | Y amplifier | AC/GND/DC switch


Measuring voltage and time period

Wave properties The trace on an oscilloscope screen is a graph of voltage against time. The shape of this graph is determined by the nature of the input signal.

In addition to the properties labelled on the graph, there is frequency which is the number of cycles per second.

The diagram shows a sine wave but these properties apply to any signal with a constant shape.

  • Amplitude is the maximum voltage reached by the signal.
    It is measured in volts, V.
  • Peak voltage is another name for amplitude.
  • Peak-peak voltage is twice the peak voltage (amplitude). When reading an oscilloscope trace it is usual to measure peak-peak voltage.
  • Time period is the time taken for the signal to complete one cycle.
    It is measured in seconds (s), but time periods tend to be short so milliseconds (ms) and microseconds (µs) are often used. 1ms = 0.001s and 1µs = 0.000001s.
  • Frequency is the number of cycles per second.
    It is measured in hertz (Hz), but frequencies tend to be high so kilohertz (kHz) and megahertz (MHz) are often used. 1kHz = 1000Hz and 1MHz = 1000000Hz.
    frequency = 1 and time period = 1
    time period frequency

Oscilloscope trace of AC
The trace of an AC signal

Y AMPLIFIER: 2V/cm
TIMEBASE: 5ms/cm

Example measurements:

peak-peak voltage = 8.4V
amplitude voltage = 4.2V

time period = 20ms
frequency = 50Hz

Voltage

Voltage is shown on the vertical y-axis and the scale is determined by the Y AMPLIFIER (VOLTS/CM) control. Usually peak-peak voltage is measured because it can be read correctly even if the position of 0V is not known. The amplitude is half the peak-peak voltage.

If you wish to read the amplitude voltage directly you must check the position of 0V (normally halfway up the screen): move the AC/GND/DC switch to GND (0V) and use Y-SHIFT (up/down) to adjust the position of the trace if necessary, switch back to DC afterwards so you can see the signal again.

Voltage = distance in cm × volts/cm
Example: peak-peak voltage = 4.2cm × 2V/cm = 8.4V
amplitude (peak voltage) = ½ × peak-peak voltage = 4.2V

Time period

Time is shown on the horizontal x-axis and the scale is determined by the TIMEBASE (TIME/CM) control. The time period (often just called period) is the time for one cycle of the signal. The frequency is the number of cyles per second, frequency = 1/time period

Ensure that the variable timebase control is set to 1 or CAL (calibrated) before attempting to take a time reading.

Time = distance in cm × time/cm
Example: time period = 4.0cm × 5ms/cm = 20ms
and frequency = 1/time period = 1/20ms = 50Hz


Oscilloscope, slow timebase
Slow timebase, no input
You can see the dot moving

Oscilloscope, fast timebase
Fast timebase, no input
The dot is too fast to see
so it appears to be a line

Timebase (time/cm) and trigger controls

The oscilloscope sweeps the electron beam across the screen from left to right at a steady speed set by the TIMEBASE control. Each setting is labelled with the time the dot takes to move 1cm, effectively it is setting the scale on the x-axis. The timebase control may be labelled TIME/CM.

At slow timebase settings (such as 50ms/cm) you can see a dot moving across the screen but at faster settings (such as 1ms/cm) the dot is moving so fast that it appears to be a line.

The VARIABLE timebase control can be turned to make a fine adjustment to the speed, but it must be left at the position labelled 1 or CAL (calibrated) if you wish to take time readings from the trace drawn on the screen.

The TRIGGER controls are used to maintain a steady trace on the screen. If they are set wrongly you may see a trace drifting sideways, a confusing 'scribble' on the screen, or no trace at all! The trigger maintains a steady trace by starting the dot sweeping across the screen when the input signal reaches the same point in its cycle each time.

For straightforward use it is best to leave the trigger level set to AUTO, but if you have difficulty obtaining a steady trace try adjusting this control to set the level manually.


Y amplifier (volts/cm) control

Oscilloscope trace of varying DC
Varying DC (always positive)
The oscilloscope moves the trace up and down in proportion to the voltage at the Y INPUT and the setting of the Y AMPLIFIER control. This control sets the voltage represented by each centimetre (cm) on the the screen, effectively it is setting the scale on the y-axis. Positive voltages make the trace move up, negative voltages make it move down.

The y amplifier control may be labelled Y-GAIN or VOLTS/CM.

The input voltage moving the dot up and down at the same time as the dot is swept across the screen means that the trace on the screen is a graph of voltage (y-axis) against time (x-axis) for the input signal.


The AC/GND/DC switch

Oscilloscope, input 0V
Switching to GND allows you
to quickly check the position
of 0V (normally halfway up).

The normal setting for this switch is DC for all signals, including AC!

Switching to GND (ground) connects the y input to 0V and allows you to quickly check the position of 0V on the screen (normally halfway up). There is no need to disconnect the input lead while you do this because it is disconnected internally.

Switching to AC inserts a capacitor in series with the input to block out any DC signal present and pass only AC signals. This is used to examine signals showing a small variation around one constant value, such as the ripple on the output of a smooth DC supply. Reducing the VOLTS/CM to see more detail of the ripple would normally take the trace off the screen! The AC setting removes the constant (DC) part of the signal, allowing you to view just the varying (AC) part which can now be examined more closely by reducing the VOLTS/CM. This is shown in the diagrams below:

Displaying a ripple signal using the AC switch
Ripple signal Ripple signal Ripple signal
Switch in normal DC position.
The ripple is difficult to see,
but if VOLTS/CM is reduced
to enlarge it the trace will
disappear off the screen!
Switch moved to AC position.
The constant (DC) part of the
signal is removed, leaving
just the ripple (AC) part.
VOLTS/CM reduced to
enlarge the ripple.

The ripple can now be
examined more closely.

AC, DC and Electrical Signals

 

Alternating Current (AC) | Direct Current (DC) | Properties of signals | RMS values

Next Page: Oscilloscopes (CROs)
Also See: Diodes | Power Supplies

AC means Alternating Current and DC means Direct Current. AC and DC are also used when referring to voltages and electrical signals which are not currents! For example: a 12V AC power supply has an alternating voltage (which will make an alternating current flow). An electrical signal is a voltage or current which conveys information, usually it means a voltage. The term can be used for any voltage or current in a circuit.


AC
AC from a power supply
This shape is called a sine wave.
triangle wave
This triangular signal is AC because it changes
between positive (+) and negative (-).

Alternating Current (AC)

Alternating Current (AC) flows one way, then the other way, continually reversing direction.

An AC voltage is continually changing between positive (+) and negative (-).

The rate of changing direction is called the frequency of the AC and it is measured in hertz (Hz) which is the number of forwards-backwards cycles per second.

Mains electricity in the UK has a frequency of 50Hz.

See below for more details of signal properties.

An AC supply is suitable for powering some devices such as lamps and heaters but almost all electronic circuits require a steady DC supply (see below).


Direct Current (DC)

Steady DC
Steady DC
from a battery or regulated power supply,
this is ideal for electronic circuits.
Smooth DC
Smooth DC
from a smoothed power supply,
this is suitable for some electronics.
Varying DC
Varying DC
from a power supply without smoothing,
this is not suitable for electronics.
Direct Current (DC) always flows in the same direction, but it may increase and decrease.

A DC voltage is always positive (or always negative), but it may increase and decrease.

Electronic circuits normally require a steady DC supply which is constant at one value or a smooth DC supply which has a small variation called ripple.

Cells, batteries and regulated power supplies provide steady DC which is ideal for electronic circuits.

Power supplies contain a transformer which converts the mains AC supply to a safe low voltage AC. Then the AC is converted to DC by a bridge rectifier but the output is varying DC which is unsuitable for electronic circuits.

Some power supplies include a capacitor to provide smooth DC which is suitable for less-sensitive electronic circuits, including most of the projects on this website.

Lamps, heaters and motors will work with any DC supply.

Please see the Power Supplies page for further information.

Power supplies are also covered by the Electronics in Meccano website.


Properties of electrical signals

Wave properties An electrical signal is a voltage or current which conveys information, usually it means a voltage. The term can be used for any voltage or current in a circuit.

The voltage-time graph on the right shows various properties of an electrical signal. In addition to the properties labelled on the graph, there is frequency which is the number of cycles per second.

The diagram shows a sine wave but these properties apply to any signal with a constant shape.

  • Amplitude is the maximum voltage reached by the signal.
    It is measured in volts, V.
  • Peak voltage is another name for amplitude.
  • Peak-peak voltage is twice the peak voltage (amplitude). When reading an oscilloscope trace it is usual to measure peak-peak voltage.
  • Time period is the time taken for the signal to complete one cycle.
    It is measured in seconds (s), but time periods tend to be short so milliseconds (ms) and microseconds (µs) are often used. 1ms = 0.001s and 1µs = 0.000001s.
  • Frequency is the number of cycles per second.
    It is measured in hertz (Hz), but frequencies tend to be high so kilohertz (kHz) and megahertz (MHz) are often used. 1kHz = 1000Hz and 1MHz = 1000000Hz.
    frequency = 1 and time period = 1
    time period frequency

    Mains electricity in the UK has a frequency of 50Hz,
    so it has a time period of 1/50 = 0.02s = 20ms.


Root Mean Square (RMS) Values

RMS and peak voltages The value of an AC voltage is continually changing from zero up to the positive peak, through zero to the negative peak and back to zero again. Clearly for most of the time it is less than the peak voltage, so this is not a good measure of its real effect.

Instead we use the root mean square voltage (VRMS) which is 0.7 of the peak voltage (Vpeak):

VRMS = 0.7 × Vpeak and Vpeak = 1.4 × VRMS

These equations also apply to current.
They are only true for sine waves (the most common type of AC) because the 0.7 and 1.4 are different values for other shapes.

The RMS value is the effective value of a varying voltage or current. It is the equivalent steady DC (constant) value which gives the same effect.

For example a lamp connected to a 6V RMS AC supply will light with the same brightness when connected to a steady 6V DC supply. However, the lamp will be dimmer if connected to a 6V peak AC supply because the RMS value of this is only 4.2V (it is equivalent to a steady 4.2V DC).

You may find it helps to think of the RMS value as a sort of average, but please remember that it is NOT really the average! In fact the average voltage (or current) of an AC signal is zero because the positive and negative parts exactly cancel out!

What do AC meters show, is it the RMS or peak voltage?

AC voltmeters and ammeters show the RMS value of the voltage or current.

What does '6V AC' really mean, is it the RMS or peak voltage?

If the peak value is meant it should be clearly stated, otherwise assume it is the RMS value. In everyday use AC voltages (and currents) are always given as RMS values because this allows a sensible comparison to be made with steady DC voltages (and currents), such as from a battery.

For example a '6V AC supply' means 6V RMS, the peak voltage is 8.6V. The UK mains supply is 230V AC, this means 230V RMS so the peak voltage of the mains is about 320V!

So what does root mean square (RMS) really mean?

First square all the values, then find the average (mean) of these square values over a complete cycle, and find the square root of this average. That is the RMS value. Confused? Ignore the maths (it looks more complicated than it really is), just accept that RMS values for voltage and current are a much more useful quantity than peak values.

Power and Energy

 

Power | Calculations | Overheating | Energy

Next Page: AC, DC and Electrical Signals
Also See: Voltage and Current | Resistance | Ohm's Law

What is power?

Power is the rate of using or supplying energy:

Power = Energy Power is measured in watts (W)
Energy is measured in joules (J)
Time is measured in seconds (s)
Time

Electronics is mostly concerned with small quantities of power, so the power is often measured in milliwatts (mW), 1mW = 0.001W. For example an LED uses about 40mW and a bleeper uses about 100mW, even a lamp such as a torch bulb only uses about 1W.

The typical power used in mains electrical circuits is much larger, so this power may be measured in kilowatts (kW), 1kW = 1000W. For example a typical mains lamp uses 60W and a kettle uses about 3kW.


Calculating power using current and voltage

There are three ways of writing an equation for power, current and voltage:
Power = Current × Voltage so P = I × V or
I = P
V
or
V = P
I
where: P = power in watts (W)
V = voltage in volts (V)
I = current in amps (A)
or: P = power in milliwatts (mW)
V = voltage in volts (V)
I = current in milliamps (mA)

P

I V

You can use the PIV triangle to help you remember the three versions of the power equations. Use it in the same way as the Ohm's Law triangle. For most electronic circuits the amp is too large, so we often measure current in milliamps (mA) and power in milliwatts (mW). 1mA = 0.001A and 1mW = 0.001W.

Calculating power using resistance and current or voltage

Using Ohm's Law V = I × R we can convert P = I × V to:
P

I² R

P R

PI²R triangle V²PR triangle
P = I² × R
or
P = V² / R
where: P = power in watts (W)
I = current in amps (A)
R = resistance in ohms (ohm)
V = voltage in volts (V)


Wasted power and overheating

Normally electric power is useful, making a lamp light or a motor turn for example. However, electrical energy is converted to heat whenever a current flows through a resistance and this can be a problem if it makes a device or wire overheat. In electronics the effect is usually negligible, but if the resistance is low (a wire or low value resistor for example) the current can be sufficiently large to cause a problem.

You can see from the equation P = I² × R that for a given resistance the power depends on the current squared, so doubling the current will give 4 times the power.

Resistors are rated by the maximum power they can have developed in them without damage, but power ratings are rarely quoted in parts lists because the standard ratings of 0.25W or 0.5W are suitable for most circuits. Further information is available on the Resistors page.

Wires and cables are rated by the maximum current they can pass without overheating. They have a very low resistance so the maximum current is relatively large. For further information about current rating please see the Connectors and Cables page.


Energy

The amount of energy used (or supplied) depends on the power and the time for which it is used:

Energy = Power × Time

A low power device operating for a long time can use more energy than a high power device operating for a short time. For example:

  • A 60W lamp switched on for 8 hours uses 60W × 8 × 3600s = 1728kJ.
  • A 3kW kettle switched on for 5 minutes uses 3000W × 5 × 60s = 900kJ.
The standard unit for energy is the joule (J), but 1J is a very small amount of energy for mains electricity so kilojoule (kJ) or megajoule (MJ) are sometimes used in scientific work. In the home we measure electrical energy in kilowatt-hours (kWh). 1kWh is the energy used by a 1kW power appliance when it is switched on for 1 hour:

1kWh = 1kW × 1 hour = 1000W × 3600s = 3.6MJ

For example:

  • A 60W lamp switched on for 8 hours uses 0.06kW × 8 = 0.48kWh.
  • A 3kW kettle switched on for 5 minutes uses 3kW × 5/60 = 0.25kWh

Ohm's Law

 

Next Page: Power and Energy
Also See: Voltage and Current | Resistance | Resistors

To make a current flow through a resistance there must be a voltage across that resistance. Ohm's Law shows the relationship between the voltage (V), current (I) and resistance (R). It can be written in three ways:

V = I × R or
I = V
R
or
R = V
I
where: V = voltage in volts (V)
I = current in amps (A)
R = resistance in ohms (ohm)
or: V = voltage in volts (V)
I = current in milliamps (mA)
R = resistance in kilohms (kohm)
For most electronic circuits the amp is too large and the ohm is too small, so we often measure current in milliamps (mA) and resistance in kilohms (kohm). 1 mA = 0.001 A and 1 kohm = 1000 ohm.

The Ohm's Law equations work if you use V, A and ohm, or if you use V, mA and kohm. You must not mix these sets of units in the equations so you may need to convert between mA and A or kohm and ohm.

The VIR triangle

V

I R

Ohm's Law
triangle
You can use the VIR triangle to help you remember the three versions of Ohm's Law.
Write down V, I and R in a triangle like the one in the yellow box on the right.
  • To calculate voltage, V: put your finger over V,
    this leaves you with I R, so the equation is V = I × R
  • To calculate current, I: put your finger over I,
    this leaves you with V over R, so the equation is I = V/R
  • To calculate resistance, R: put your finger over R,
    this leaves you with V over I, so the equation is R = V/I

Ohm's Law Calculations

Use this method to guide you through calculations:
V

I R

  1. Write down the Values, converting units if necessary.
  2. Select the Equation you need (use the VIR triangle).
  3. Put the Numbers into the equation and calculate the answer.

It should be Very Easy Now!

  • 3 V is applied across a 6 ohm resistor, what is the current?
    • Values: V = 3 V, I = ?, R = 6 ohm
    • Equation: I = V/R
    • Numbers: Current, I = 3/6 = 0.5 A

  • A lamp connected to a 6 V battery passes a current of 60 mA, what is the lamp's resistance?
    • Values: V = 6 V, I = 60 mA, R = ?
    • Equation: R = V/I
    • Numbers: Resistance, R = 6/60 = 0.1 kohm = 100 ohm
      (using mA for current means the calculation gives the resistance in kohm)

  • A 1.2 kohm resistor passes a current of 0.2 A, what is the voltage across it?
    • Values: V = ?, I = 0.2 A, R = 1.2 kohm = 1200 ohm
      (1.2 kohm is converted to 1200 ohm because A and kohm must not be used together)
    • Equation: V = I × R
    • Numbers: V = 0.2 × 1200 = 240 V

Ohm's Law

 

Next Page: Power and Energy
Also See: Voltage and Current | Resistance | Resistors

To make a current flow through a resistance there must be a voltage across that resistance. Ohm's Law shows the relationship between the voltage (V), current (I) and resistance (R). It can be written in three ways:

V = I × R or
I = V
R
or
R = V
I
where: V = voltage in volts (V)
I = current in amps (A)
R = resistance in ohms (ohm)
or: V = voltage in volts (V)
I = current in milliamps (mA)
R = resistance in kilohms (kohm)
For most electronic circuits the amp is too large and the ohm is too small, so we often measure current in milliamps (mA) and resistance in kilohms (kohm). 1 mA = 0.001 A and 1 kohm = 1000 ohm.

The Ohm's Law equations work if you use V, A and ohm, or if you use V, mA and kohm. You must not mix these sets of units in the equations so you may need to convert between mA and A or kohm and ohm.

The VIR triangle

V

I R

Ohm's Law
triangle
You can use the VIR triangle to help you remember the three versions of Ohm's Law.
Write down V, I and R in a triangle like the one in the yellow box on the right.
  • To calculate voltage, V: put your finger over V,
    this leaves you with I R, so the equation is V = I × R
  • To calculate current, I: put your finger over I,
    this leaves you with V over R, so the equation is I = V/R
  • To calculate resistance, R: put your finger over R,
    this leaves you with V over I, so the equation is R = V/I

Ohm's Law Calculations

Use this method to guide you through calculations:
V

I R

  1. Write down the Values, converting units if necessary.
  2. Select the Equation you need (use the VIR triangle).
  3. Put the Numbers into the equation and calculate the answer.

It should be Very Easy Now!

  • 3 V is applied across a 6 ohm resistor, what is the current?
    • Values: V = 3 V, I = ?, R = 6 ohm
    • Equation: I = V/R
    • Numbers: Current, I = 3/6 = 0.5 A

  • A lamp connected to a 6 V battery passes a current of 60 mA, what is the lamp's resistance?
    • Values: V = 6 V, I = 60 mA, R = ?
    • Equation: R = V/I
    • Numbers: Resistance, R = 6/60 = 0.1 kohm = 100 ohm
      (using mA for current means the calculation gives the resistance in kohm)

  • A 1.2 kohm resistor passes a current of 0.2 A, what is the voltage across it?
    • Values: V = ?, I = 0.2 A, R = 1.2 kohm = 1200 ohm
      (1.2 kohm is converted to 1200 ohm because A and kohm must not be used together)
    • Equation: V = I × R
    • Numbers: V = 0.2 × 1200 = 240 V

Resistance

 

Resistance | Series | Parallel | Conductors and Insulators

Next Page: Ohm's Law
Also See: Voltage and Current | Resistors | Series and Parallel | Impedance

Resistance

Resistance is the property of a component which restricts the flow of electric current. Energy is used up as the voltage across the component drives the current through it and this energy appears as heat in the component.

Resistance is measured in ohms, the symbol for ohm is an omega ohm.
1 ohm is quite small for electronics so resistances are often given in kohm and Mohm.
1 kohm = 1000 ohm 1 Mohm = 1000000 ohm.

Resistors used in electronics can have resistances as low as 0.1 ohm or as high as 10 Mohm.


Resistors connected in Series

resistors in series When resistors are connected in series their combined resistance is equal to the individual resistances added together. For example if resistors R1 and R2 are connected in series their combined resistance, R, is given by:

Combined resistance in series: R = R1 + R2

This can be extended for more resistors: R = R1 + R2 + R3 + R4 + ...

Note that the combined resistance in series will always be greater than any of the individual resistances.


Resistors connected in Parallel

resistors in parallel When resistors are connected in parallel their combined resistance is less than any of the individual resistances. There is a special equation for the combined resistance of two resistors R1 and R2:

Combined resistance of
two resistors in parallel:
R = R1 × R2
R1 + R2

For more than two resistors connected in parallel a more difficult equation must be used. This adds up the reciprocal ("one over") of each resistance to give the reciprocal of the combined resistance, R:

1 = 1 + 1 + 1 + ...
R R1 R2 R3

The simpler equation for two resistors in parallel is much easier to use!

Note that the combined resistance in parallel will always be less than any of the individual resistances.


Conductors, Semiconductors and Insulators

The resistance of an object depends on its shape and the material from which it is made. For a given material, objects with a smaller cross-section or longer length will have a greater resistance.

Materials can be divided into three groups:

  • Conductors which have low resistance.
    Examples: metals (aluminium, copper, silver etc.) and carbon.
    Metals are used to make connecting wires, switch contacts and lamp filaments. Resistors are made from carbon or long coils of thin wire.
  • Semiconductors which have moderate resistance.
    Examples: germanium, silicon.
    Semiconductors are used to make diodes, LEDs, transistors and integrated circuits (chips).
  • Insulators which have high resistance.
    Examples: most plastics such as polythene and PVC (polyvinyl chloride), paper, glass.
    PVC is used as an outer covering for wires to prevent them making contact.

Multimeters

 

Choosing | Digital | Analogue | Voltage & Current | Resistance | Diode | Transistor

Next Page: Resistance
Also See: Meters | Voltage and Current

Digital display
Liquid-Crystal Display
(LCD)
Multimeters are very useful test instruments. By operating a multi-position switch on the meter they can be quickly and easily set to be a voltmeter, an ammeter or an ohmmeter. They have several settings (called 'ranges') for each type of meter and the choice of AC or DC. Some multimeters have additional features such as transistor testing and ranges for measuring capacitance and frequency.


Choosing a multimeter

The photographs below show modestly priced multimeters which are suitable for general electronics use, you should be able to buy meters like these for less than £15. A digital multimeter is the best choice for your first multimeter, even the cheapest will be suitable for testing simple projects.

If you are buying an analogue multimeter make sure it has a high sensitivity of 20kohm/V or greater on DC voltage ranges, anything less is not suitable for electronics. The sensitivity is normally marked in a corner of the scale, ignore the lower AC value (sensitivity on AC ranges is less important), the higher DC value is the critical one. Beware of cheap analogue multimeters sold for electrical work on cars because their sensitivity is likely to be too low.


Digital Multimeter, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Digital Multimeter
Photograph © Rapid Electronics

Digital multimeters

All digital meters contain a battery to power the display so they use virtually no power from the circuit under test. This means that on their DC voltage ranges they have a very high resistance (usually called input impedance) of 1Mohm or more, usually 10Mohm, and they are very unlikely to affect the circuit under test.

Typical ranges for digital multimeters like the one illustrated:
(the values given are the maximum reading on each range)

  • DC Voltage: 200mV, 2000mV, 20V, 200V, 600V.
  • AC Voltage: 200V, 600V.
  • DC Current: 200µA, 2000µA, 20mA, 200mA, 10A*.
    *The 10A range is usually unfused and connected via a special socket.
  • AC Current: None. (You are unlikely to need to measure this).
  • Resistance: 200ohm, 2000ohm, 20kohm, 200kohm, 2000kohm, Diode Test.
Digital meters have a special diode test setting because their resistance ranges cannot be used to test diodes and other semiconductors.

Top of page | Choosing | Digital | Analogue | Voltage & Current | Resistance | Diode | Transistor
Analogue Multimeter, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Analogue Multimeter
Photograph © Rapid Electronics

Analogue multimeters

Analogue meters take a little power from the circuit under test to operate their pointer. They must have a high sensitivity of at least 20kohm/V or they may upset the circuit under test and give an incorrect reading. See the section below on sensitivity for more details.

Batteries inside the meter provide power for the resistance ranges, they will last several years but you should avoid leaving the meter set to a resistance range in case the leads touch accidentally and run the battery flat.

Typical ranges for analogue multimeters like the one illustrated:
(the voltage and current values given are the maximum reading on each range)

  • DC Voltage: 0.5V, 2.5V, 10V, 50V, 250V, 1000V.
  • AC Voltage: 10V, 50V, 250V, 1000V.
  • DC Current: 50µA, 2.5mA, 25mA, 250mA.
    A high current range is often missing from this type of meter.
  • AC Current: None. (You are unlikely to need to measure this).
  • Resistance: 20ohm, 200ohm, 2kohm, 20kohm, 200kohm.
    These resistance values are in the middle of the scale for each range.
It is a good idea to leave an analogue multimeter set to a DC voltage range such as 10V when not in use. It is less likely to be damaged by careless use on this range, and there is a good chance that it will be the range you need to use next anyway!

Sensitivity of an analogue multimeter

Multimeters must have a high sensitivity of at least 20kohm/V otherwise their resistance on DC voltage ranges may be too low to avoid upsetting the circuit under test and giving an incorrect reading. To obtain valid readings the meter resistance should be at least 10 times the circuit resistance (take this to be the highest resistor value near where the meter is connected). You can increase the meter resistance by selecting a higher voltage range, but this may give a reading which is too small to read accurately!

On any DC voltage range:
Analogue Meter Resistance = Sensitivity × Max. reading of range
e.g. a meter with 20kohm/V sensitivity on its 10V range has a resistance of 20kohm/V × 10V = 200kohm.

By contrast, digital multimeters have a constant resistance of at least 1Mohm (often 10Mohm) on all their DC voltage ranges. This is more than enough for almost all circuits.


Top of page | Choosing | Digital | Analogue | Voltage & Current | Resistance | Diode | Transistor

Measuring voltage and current with a multimeter

  1. Select a range with a maximum greater than you expect the reading to be.
  2. Connect the meter, making sure the leads are the correct way round.
    Digital meters can be safely connected in reverse, but an analogue meter may be damaged.
  3. If the reading goes off the scale: immediately disconnect and select a higher range.
Multimeters are easily damaged by careless use so please take these precautions:
  • Always disconnect the multimeter before adjusting the range switch.
  • Always check the setting of the range switch before you connect to a circuit.
  • Never leave a multimeter set to a current range (except when actually taking a reading).
    The greatest risk of damage is on the current ranges because the meter has a low resistance.

Measuring voltage at a point

When testing circuits you often need to find the voltages at various points, for example the voltage at pin 2 of a 555 timer IC. This can seem confusing - where should you connect the second multimeter lead?
Measuring voltage at a point
Measuring voltage at a point.
  • Connect the black (negative -) lead to 0V, normally the negative terminal of the battery or power supply.
  • Connect the red (positive +) lead to the point you where you need to measure the voltage.
  • The black lead can be left permanently connected to 0V while you use the red lead as a probe to measure voltages at various points.
  • You may wish to fit a crocodile clip to the black lead of your multimeter to hold it in place while doing testing like this.
Voltage at a point really means the voltage difference between that point and 0V (zero volts) which is normally the negative terminal of the battery or power supply. Usually 0V will be labelled on the circuit diagram as a reminder.

Multimeter scales
Analogue Multimeter Scales
These can appear daunting at first but remember
that you only need to read one scale at a time!
The top scale is used when measuring resistance.

Reading analogue scales

Check the setting of the range switch and choose an appropriate scale. For some ranges you may need to multiply or divide by 10 or 100 as shown in the sample readings below. For AC voltage ranges use the red markings because the calibration of the scale is slightly different.

Sample readings on the scales shown:
DC 10V range: 4.4V (read 0-10 scale directly)
DC 50V range: 22V (read 0-50 scale directly)
DC 25mA range: 11mA (read 0-250 and divide by 10)
AC 10V range: 4.45V
(use the red scale, reading 0-10)

If you are not familiar with reading analogue scales generally you may wish to see the analogue display section on the general meters page.


Top of page | Choosing | Digital | Analogue | Voltage & Current | Resistance | Diode | Transistor

Measuring resistance with a multimeter

To measure the resistance of a component it must not be connected in a circuit. If you try to measure resistance of components in a circuit you will obtain false readings (even if the supply is disconnected) and you may damage the multimeter.

The techniques used for each type of meter are very different so they are treated separately:

Measuring resistance with a DIGITAL multimeter

  1. Set the meter to a resistance range greater than you expect the resistance to be.
    Notice that the meter display shows "off the scale" (usually blank except for a 1 on the left). Don't worry, this is not a fault, it is correct - the resistance of air is very high!
  2. Touch the meter probes together and check that the meter reads zero.
    If it doesn't read zero, turn the switch to 'Set Zero' if your meter has this and try again.
  3. Put the probes across the component.
    Avoid touching more than one contact at a time or your resistance will upset the reading!

Measuring resistance with an ANALOGUE multimeter

The resistance scale on an analogue meter is normally at the top, it is an unusual scale because it reads backwards and is not linear (evenly spaced). This is unfortunate, but it is due to the way the meter works.
  1. Set the meter to a suitable resistance range.
    Choose a range so that the resistance you expect will be near the middle of the scale. For example: with the scale shown below and an expected resistance of about 50kohm choose the × 1kohm range.
  2. Hold the meter probes together and adjust the control on the front of the meter which is usually labelled "0ohm ADJ" until the pointer reads zero (on the RIGHT remember!).
    If you can't adjust it to read zero, the battery inside the meter needs replacing.
  3. Put the probes across the component.
    Avoid touching more than one contact at a time or your resistance will upset the reading!
Multimeter scales
Analogue Multimeter Scales
The resistance scale is at the top, note that it reads
backwards and is not linear (evenly spaced).

Reading analogue resistance scales

For resistance use the upper scale, noting that it reads backwards and is not linear (evenly spaced).

Check the setting of the range switch so that you know by how much to multiply the reading.

Sample readings on the scales shown:
× 10ohm range: 260ohm
× 1kohm range: 26kohm

If you are not familiar with reading analogue scales generally you may wish to see the analogue display section on the general meters page.


Top of page | Choosing | Digital | Analogue | Voltage & Current | Resistance | Diode | Transistor

Testing a diode with a multimeter

The techniques used for each type of meter are very different so they are treated separately:

Diode connections
Diodes

a = anode
k = cathode

Testing a diode with a DIGITAL multimeter

  • Digital multimeters have a special setting for testing a diode, usually labelled with the diode symbol.
  • Connect the red (+) lead to the anode and the black (-) to the cathode. The diode should conduct and the meter will display a value (usually the voltage across the diode in mV, 1000mV = 1V).
  • Reverse the connections. The diode should NOT conduct this way so the meter will display "off the scale" (usually blank except for a 1 on the left).

Testing a diode with an ANALOGUE multimeter

  • Set the analogue multimeter to a low value resistance range such as × 10.
  • It is essential to note that the polarity of analogue multimeter leads is reversed on the resistance ranges, so the black lead is positive (+) and the red lead is negative (-)! This is unfortunate, but it is due to the way the meter works.
  • Connect the black (+) lead to anode and the red (-) to the cathode. The diode should conduct and the meter will display a low resistance (the exact value is not relevant).
  • Reverse the connections. The diode should NOT conduct this way so the meter will show infinite resistance (on the left of the scale).
For further information please see the diodes page.
You may find it easier to test a diode with the simple tester project.

Top of page | Choosing | Digital | Analogue | Voltage & Current | Resistance | Diode | Transistor

Testing a transistor with a multimeter

Testing a transistor
Testing an NPN transistor
Set a digital multimeter to diode test and an analogue multimeter to a low resistance range such as × 10, as described above for testing a diode.

Test each pair of leads both ways (six tests in total):

  • The base-emitter (BE) junction should behave like a diode and conduct one way only.
  • The base-collector (BC) junction should behave like a diode and conduct one way only.
  • The collector-emitter (CE) should not conduct either way.
The diagram shows how the junctions behave in an NPN transistor. The diodes are reversed in a PNP transistor but the same test procedure can be used.

For further information please see the transistors page.
You may find it easier to test a transistor with the simple tester project.

Some multimeters have a 'transistor test' function, please refer to the instructions supplied with the meter for details.

Meters

 

Analogue | Digital | Voltmeters | Ammeters | Galvanometers | Ohmmeters

Next Page: Multimeters
Also See: Voltage and Current

Analogue display

Analogue display Analogue displays have a pointer which moves over a graduated scale. They can be difficult to read because of the need to work out the value of the smallest scale division. For example the scale in the picture has 10 small divisions between 0 and 1 so each small division represents 0.1. The reading is therefore 1.25V (the pointer is estimated to be half way between 1.2 and 1.3).

The maximum reading of an analogue meter is called full-scale deflection or FSD (it is 5V in the example shown).

Analogue meters must be connected the correct way round to prevent them being damaged when the pointer tries to move in the wrong direction. They are useful for monitoring continously changing values (such as the voltage across a capacitor discharging) and they can be good for quick rough readings because the movement of the pointer can be seen without looking away from the circuit under test.

Correct reading Wrong reading
Correct
reflection hidden
Wrong
reflection visible

Taking accurate readings

To take an accurate reading from an analogue scale you must have your eye in line with the pointer. Avoid looking at an angle from the left or right because you will see a reading which is a little too high or too low. Many analogue meters have a small strip of mirror along the scale to help you. When your eye is in the correct position the reflection of the pointer is hidden behind the pointer itself. If you can see the reflection you are looking at an angle.

Instead of a mirror, some meters have a twisted pointer to aid accurate readings. The end of the pointer is turned through 90° so it appears very thin when viewed correctly. The meter shown in the galvanometers section has a twisted pointer although it is too small to see in the picture.

Digital display

Digital display Values can be read directly from digital displays so they are easy to read accurately. It is normal for the least significant digit (on the right) to continually change between two or three values, this is a feature of the way digital meters work, not an error! Normally you will not need great precision and the least significant digit can be ignored or rounded up.

Digital meters may be connected either way round without damage, they will show a minus sign (-) when connected in reverse. If you exceed the maximum reading most digital meters show an almost blank display with just a 1 on the left-hand side.

All digital meters contain a battery to power the display so they use virtually no power from the circuit under test. This means that digital voltmeters have a very high resistance (usually called input impedance) of 1Mohm or more, usually 10Mohm, and they are very unlikely to affect the circuit under test.

For general use digital meters are the best type. They are easy to read, they may be connected in reverse and they are unlikely to affect the circuit under test.


Connecting meters

It is important to connect meters the correct way round:
  • The positive terminal of the meter, marked + or coloured red should be connected nearest to + on the battery or power supply.
  • The negative terminal of the meter, marked - or coloured black should be connected nearest to - on the battery or power supply.

Voltmeters

Connecting a voltmeter in parallel
Connecting a voltmeter in parallel
voltmeter symbol
  • Voltmeters measure voltage.
  • Voltage is measured in volts, V.
  • Voltmeters are connected in parallel across components.
  • Voltmeters have a very high resistance.

Measuring voltage at a point

When testing circuits you often need to find the voltages at various points, for example the voltage at pin 2 of a 555 timer IC. This can seem confusing - where should you connect the second voltmeter lead? Measuring voltage at a point
  • Connect the black (negative -) voltmeter lead to 0V, normally the negative terminal of the battery or power supply.
  • Connect the red (positive +) voltmeter lead to the point you where you need to measure the voltage.
  • The black lead can be left permanently connected to 0V while you use the red lead as a probe to measure voltages at various points.
  • You may wish to use a crocodile clip on the black lead to hold it in place.
Voltage at a point really means the voltage difference between that point and 0V (zero volts) which is normally the negative terminal of the battery or power supply. Usually 0V will be labelled on the circuit diagram as a reminder.

Analogue meters take a little power from the circuit under test to operate their pointer. This may upset the circuit and give an incorrect reading. To avoid this voltmeters should have a resistance of at least 10 times the circuit resistance (take this to be the highest resistor value near where the meter is connected).

Most analogue voltmeters used in school science are not suitable for electronics because their resistance is too low, typically a few kohm. 100kohm or more is required for most electronics circuits.


Connecting an ammeter in series
Connecting an ammeter in series

Ammeters

ammeter symbol
  • Ammeters measure current.
  • Current is measured in amps (amperes), A.
    1A is quite large, so mA (milliamps) and µA (microamps) are often used. 1000mA = 1A, 1000µA = 1mA, 1000000µA = 1A.
  • Ammeters are connected in series.
    To connect in series you must break the circuit and put the ammeter across the gap, as shown in the diagram.
  • Ammeters have a very low resistance.

The need to break the circuit to connect in series means that ammeters are difficult to use on soldered circuits. Most testing in electronics is done with voltmeters which can be easily connected without disturbing circuits.


Galvanometers

galvanometer symbol Galvanometers are very sensitive meters which are used to measure tiny currents, usually 1mA or less. They are used to make all types of analogue meters by adding suitable resistors as shown in the diagrams below. The photograph shows an educational 100µA galvanometer for which various multipliers and shunts are available.
galvanometer with a multiplier to make a voltmeter galvanometer with a shunt to make an ammeter galvanometer with multiplier and shunt
Making a Voltmeter
A galvanometer with a high resistance multiplier in series to make a voltmeter.
Making an Ammeter
A galvanometer with a low resistance shunt in parallel to make an ammeter.
Galvanometer with multiplier and shunt
Maximum meter current 100µA (or 20µA reverse).
This meter is unusual in allowing small
reverse readings to be shown.

Ohmmeters

ohmmeter symbol An ohmmeter is used to measure resistance in ohms (ohm). Ohmmeters are rarely found as separate meters but all standard multimeters have an ohmmeter setting.
1ohm is quite small so kohm and Mohm are often used.

1kohm = 1000ohm, 1Mohm = 1000kohm = 1000000ohm.


Analogue Multimeter, photograph © Rapid Electronics Digital Multimeter, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Analogue Multimeter Digital Multimeter
Multimeter Photographs © Rapid Electronics

Multimeters

Multimeters are very useful test instruments. By operating a multi-position switch on the meter they can be quickly and easily set to be a voltmeter, an ammeter or an ohmmeter. They have several settings (called 'ranges') for each type of meter and the choice of AC or DC.

Some multimeters have additional features such as transistor testing and ranges for measuring capacitance and frequency.

Analogue multimeters consist of a galvanometer with various resistors which can be switched in as multipliers (voltmeter ranges) and shunts (ammeter ranges).

For further information please see the Multimeters page.

Voltage and Current

 

This Page: Voltage | Current | ... in Series and Parallel
Next Page: Meters
Also See: Multimeters | Ohm's Law

Voltage and Current are vital to understanding electronics, but they are quite hard to grasp because we can't see them directly.

Voltage is the Cause, Current is the Effect

Voltage attempts to make a current flow, and current will flow if the circuit is complete. Voltage is sometimes described as the 'push' or 'force' of the electricity, it isn't really a force but this may help you to imagine what is happening. It is possible to have voltage without current, but current cannot flow without voltage.

Switch closed Switch open No cell
Voltage and Current
The switch is closed making a complete circuit so current can flow.
Voltage but No Current
The switch is open so the circuit is broken and current cannot flow.
No Voltage and No Current
Without the cell there is no source of voltage so current cannot flow.

Voltage, V

Connecting a voltmeter in parallel
Connecting a voltmeter in parallel
  • Voltage is a measure of the energy carried by the charge.
    Strictly: voltage is the "energy per unit charge".
  • The proper name for voltage is potential difference or p.d. for short, but this term is rarely used in electronics.
  • Voltage is supplied by the battery (or power supply).
  • Voltage is used up in components, but not in wires.
  • We say voltage across a component.
  • Voltage is measured in volts, V.
  • Voltage is measured with a voltmeter, connected in parallel.
  • The symbol V is used for voltage in equations.

Voltage at a point and 0V (zero volts)

Voltages at points Voltage is a difference between two points, but in electronics we often refer to voltage at a point meaning the voltage difference between that point and a reference point of 0V (zero volts).

Zero volts could be any point in the circuit, but to be consistent it is normally the negative terminal of the battery or power supply. You will often see circuit diagrams labelled with 0V as a reminder.

You may find it helpful to think of voltage like height in geography. The reference point of zero height is the mean (average) sea level and all heights are measured from that point. The zero volts in an electronic circuit is like the mean sea level in geography.

Dual Supply

Zero volts for circuits with a dual supply

Some circuits require a dual supply with three supply connections as shown in the diagram. For these circuits the zero volts reference point is the middle terminal between the two parts of the supply.

On complex circuit diagrams using a dual supply the earth symbol is often used to indicate a connection to 0V, this helps to reduce the number of wires drawn on the diagram.

The diagram shows a ±9V dual supply, the positive terminal is +9V, the negative terminal is -9V and the middle terminal is 0V.


Connecting an ammeter in series
Connecting an ammeter in series

Current, I

  • Current is the rate of flow of charge.
  • Current is not used up, what flows into a component must flow out.
  • We say current through a component.
  • Current is measured in amps (amperes), A.
  • Current is measured with an ammeter, connected in series.
    To connect in series you must break the circuit and put the ammeter acoss the gap, as shown in the diagram.
  • The symbol I is used for current in equations.
    Why is the letter I used for current? ... please see FAQ.
1A (1 amp) is quite a large current for electronics, so mA (milliamps) are often used. m (milli) means "thousandth":

1mA = 0.001A, or 1000mA = 1A

The need to break the circuit to connect in series means that ammeters are difficult to use on soldered circuits. Most testing in electronics is done with voltmeters which can be easily connected without disturbing circuits.


Voltage and Current in Series

Voltage and Current for components in Series

Voltages add up for components connected in series.
Currents are the same through all components connected in series.

In this circuit the 4V across the resistor and the 2V across the LED add up to the battery voltage: 2V + 4V = 6V.

The current through all parts (battery, resistor and LED) is 20mA.


Voltage and Current in Parallel

Voltage and Current for components in Parallel

Voltages are the same across all components connected in parallel.
Currents add up for components connected in parallel.

In this circuit the battery, resistor and lamp all have 6V across them.

The 30mA current through the resistor and the 60mA current through the lamp add up to the 90mA current through the battery.

Series and Parallel Connections

 

Next Page: Voltage and Current
Also see: Circuit Symbols and Circuit Diagrams

Connecting Components

There are two ways of connecting components:

In series

so that each component has the same current.

The battery voltage is divided between the two lamps
Each lamp will have half the battery voltage if the lamps are identical.

Two lamps connected in series

In parallel

so that each component has the same voltage.

Both lamps have the full battery voltage across them.
The battery current is divided between the two lamps.

Two lamps connected in parallel

Most circuits contain a mixture of series and parallel connections

Circuit with series and parallel sections The terms series circuit and parallel circuit are sometimes used, but only the simplest of circuits are entirely one type or the other. It is better to refer to specific components and say they are connected in series or connected in parallel.

For example: the circuit on the right shows a resistor and LED connected in series (on the right) and two lamps connected in parallel (in the centre). The switch is connected in series with the two lamps.

See Lamps in Parallel below for another example.


Lamps in Series

Lamps in series If several lamps are connected in series they will all be switched on and off together by a switch connected anywhere in the circuit. The supply voltage is divided equally between the lamps (assuming they are all identical). If one lamp blows all the lamps will go out because the circuit is broken.

Christmas Tree Lights

The lamps on a Christmas tree are connected in series.

Normally you would expect all the lamps to go out if one blew, but Christmas tree lamps are special! They are designed to short circuit (conduct like a wire link) when they blow, so the circuit is not broken and the other lamps remain lit, making it easier to locate the faulty lamp. Sets also include one 'fuse' lamp which blows normally.

If there are 20 lamps and the mains electricity voltage is 240V, each lamp must be suitable for a 12V supply because the 240V is divided equally between the 20 lamps: 240V ÷ 20 = 12V.

WARNING! The Christmas tree lamps may seem safe because they use only 12V but they are connected to the mains supply which can be lethal. Always unplug from the mains before changing lamps. The voltage across the holder of a missing lamp is the full 240V of the mains supply! (Yes, it really is!)


Lamps in parallel

Lamps in Parallel

If several lamps are connected in parallel each one has the full supply voltage across it. The lamps may be switched on and off independently by connecting a switch in series with each lamp as shown in the circuit diagram. This arrangement is used to control the lamps in buildings.

This type of circuit is often called a parallel circuit but you can see that it is not really so simple - the switches are in series with the lamps, and it is these switch and lamp pairs that are connected in parallel.


Switches in series

Switches in Series

If several on-off switches are connected in series they must all be closed (on) to complete the circuit.

The diagram shows a simple circuit with two switches connected in series to control a lamp.

Switch S1 AND Switch S2 must be closed to light the lamp.



Switches in parallel

Switches in Parallel

If several on-off switches are connected in parallel only one needs to be closed (on) to complete the circuit.

The diagram shows a simple circuit with two switches connected in parallel to control a lamp.

Switch S1 OR Switch S2 (or both of them) must be closed to light the lamp.

Electricity and the Electron

 

Next Page: Series and Parallel Connections
Also see: Circuit Symbols and Circuit Diagrams

What is electricity?

Lamp switching on and off Electricity is the flow of charge around a circuit carrying energy from the battery (or power supply) to components such as lamps and motors.

Electricity can flow only if there is a complete circuit from the battery through wires to components and back to the battery again.

The diagram shows a simple circuit of a battery, wires, a switch and a lamp. The switch works by breaking the circuit.

With the switch open the circuit is broken - so electricity cannot flow and the lamp is off.

With the switch closed the circuit is complete - allowing electricity to flow and the lamp is on. The electricity is carrying energy from the battery to the lamp.

We can see, hear or feel the effects of electricity flowing such as a lamp lighting, a bell ringing, or a motor turning - but we cannot see the electricity itself, so which way is it flowing?


Conventional current
Imaginary positive particles
moving in the direction of
the conventional current

Which way does electricity flow?

We say that electricity flows from the positive (+) terminal of a battery to the negative (-) terminal of the battery. We can imagine particles with positive electric charge flowing in this direction around the circuit, like the red dots in the diagram.

This flow of electric charge is called conventional current.

This direction of flow is used throughout electronics and it is the one you should remember and use to understand the operation of circuits.

However this is not the whole answer because the particles that move in fact have negative charge! And they flow in the opposite direction! Please read on...


Electrons flowing

The electron

When electricity was discovered scientists tried many experiments to find out which way the electricity was flowing around circuits, but in those early days they found it was impossible to find the direction of flow.

They knew there were two types of electric charge, positive (+) and negative (-), and they decided to say that electricity was a flow of positive charge from + to -. They knew this was a guess, but a decision had to be made! Everything known at that time could also be explained if electricity was negative charge flowing the other way, from - to +.

The electron was discovered in 1897 and it was found to have a negative charge. The guess made in the early days of electricity was wrong! Electricity in almost all conductors is really the flow of electrons (negative charge) from - to +.

By the time the electron was discovered the idea of electricity flowing from + to - (conventional current) was firmly established. Luckily it is not a problem to think of electricity in this way because positive charge flowing forwards is equivalent to negative charge flowing backwards.

To prevent confusion you should always use conventional current when trying to understand how circuits work, imagine positively charged particles flowing from + to -.

Example of Circuit Diagram and Stripboard Layout

Circuit diagrams and component layouts

Circuit diagrams show the connections as clearly as possible with all wires drawn neatly as straight lines. The actual layout of the components is usually quite different from the circuit diagram and this can be confusing for the beginner. The secret is to concentrate on the connections, not the actual positions of components.

The circuit diagram and stripboard layout for the Adjustable Timer project are shown here so you can see the difference.

A circuit diagram is useful when testing a circuit and for understanding how it works. This is why the instructions for projects include a circuit diagram as well as the stripboard or printed circuit board layout which you need to build the circuit.

Good and Bad Circuit Diagrams

Drawing circuit diagrams

Drawing circuit diagrams is not difficult but it takes a little practice to draw neat, clear diagrams. This is a useful skill for science as well as for electronics. You will certainly need to draw circuit diagrams if you design your own circuits.

Follow these tips for best results:

  • Make sure you use the correct symbol for each component.
  • Draw connecting wires as straight lines (use a ruler).
  • Put a 'blob' () at each junction between wires.
  • Label components such as resistors and capacitors with their values.
  • The positive (+) supply should be at the top and the negative (-) supply at the bottom. The negative supply is usually labelled 0V, zero volts.
    If you are drawing the circuit diagram for science please see the section about drawing diagrams the 'electronics way'.
If the circuit is complex:
  • Try to arrange the diagram so that signals flow from left to right: inputs and controls should be on the left, outputs on the right.
  • You may omit the battery or power supply symbols, but you must include (and label) the supply lines at the top and bottom.

The same circuit drawn two different ways

Drawing circuit diagrams the 'electronics way'

Circuit diagrams for electronics are drawn with the positive (+) supply at the top and the negative (-) supply at the bottom. This can be helpful in understanding the operation of the circuit because the voltage decreases as you move down the circuit diagram.

Circuit diagrams for science are traditionally drawn with the battery or power supply at the top. This is not wrong, but there is usually no advantage in drawing them this way and I think it is less helpful for understanding the circuit.

I suggest that you always draw your circuit diagrams the 'electronics way', even for science!

[I hope your science teacher won't mind too much!]

Note that the negative supply is usually called 0V (zero volts).
This is explained on the Voltage and Current page.

Block Diagrams

 

Audio System | Radio System | Power Supply System | Feedback Control System

Next Page: Circuit Diagrams


Block diagrams are used to understand (and design) complete circuits by breaking them down into smaller sections or blocks. Each block performs a particular function and the block diagram shows how they are connected together. No attempt is made to show the components used within a block, only the inputs and outputs are shown. This way of looking at circuits is called the systems approach.

Power supply (or battery) connections are usually not shown on block diagrams.


Audio Amplifier System

Block Diagram of an Audio Amplifier System

The power supply (not shown) is connected to the pre-amplifier and power amplifier blocks.

  • Microphone - a transducer which converts sound to voltage.
  • Pre-Amplifier - amplifies the small audio signal (voltage) from the microphone.
  • Tone and Volume Controls - adjust the nature of the audio signal.
    The tone control adjusts the balance of high and low frequencies.
    The volume control adjusts the strength of the signal.
  • Power Amplifier - increases the strength (power) of the audio signal.
  • Loudspeaker - a transducer which converts the audio signal to sound.

Radio Receiver System

Block Diagram of a Radio Receiver System

The power supply (not shown) is connected to the audio amplifier block.

  • Aerial - picks up radio signals from many stations.
  • Tuner - selects the signal from just one radio station.
  • Detector - extracts the audio signal carried by the radio signal.
  • Audio Amplifier - increases the strength (power) of the audio signal.
    This could be broken down into the blocks like the Audio Amplifier System shown above.
  • Loudspeaker - a transducer which converts the audio signal to sound.

Regulated Power Supply System

Block Diagram of a Regulated Power Supply System
  • Transformer - steps down 230V AC mains to low voltage AC.
  • Rectifier - converts AC to DC, but the DC output is varying.
  • Smoothing - smooths the DC from varying greatly to a small ripple.
  • Regulator - eliminates ripple by setting DC output to a fixed voltage.
For futher information please see the Power Supplies page.

Feedback Control System

Block Diagram of a Feedback Control System

The power supply (not shown) is connected to the control circuit block.

  • Sensor - a transducer which converts the state of the controlled quantity to an electrical signal.
  • Selector (control input) - selects the desired state of the output. Usually it is a variable resistor.
  • Control Circuit - compares the desired state (control input) with the actual state (sensor) of the controlled quantity and sends an appropriate signal to the output transducer.
  • Output Transducer - converts the electrical signal to the controlled quantity.
  • Controlled Quantity - usually not an electrical quantity, e.g. motor speed.
  • Feedback Path - usually not electrical, the Sensor detects the state of the controlled quantity.

Frequently Asked Questions

 



Why is the letter I used to represent current?

The letter I seems to be an odd choice for the English language, but it was chosen in the early days of electricity to represent intensity of current which we simply call current today. The unit of current, the ampere, is named after the French scientist André-Marie Ampère in recognition of his work on the relationship between electric current and magnetism. Ampère referred to electric current as "l'intensité du courant électrique", so I was a logical choice to represent intensité (intensity). I am grateful to Barry Caruth for suggesting a search of the internet for "Ampère" and "l'intensité du courant électrique" which returns many sites as evidence (most of them French) enabling me to answer this question with confidence.
Further information: Quantities used in Electronics | Voltage and Current | Ohm's Law
Resistor symbols

Why do some books use zig-zag lines for resistors in circuit diagrams?

The zig-zag line is the old symbol for a resistor and you may find it in older books and magazines. The correct modern symbol for a resistor is a rectangle.
Further information: Resistors | Circuit Symbols | Circuit Diagrams

My project has a resistor labelled 47, does that mean 47kohm?

No, it means 47ohm which is 1000 times smaller! 47kohm would be shortened to 47k (or 47K). The ohm (ohm) symbol is often omitted from circuit diagrams and component layouts but the k (meaning kilo = 1000) will always be included if it is needed.
Further information: Resistors

Why do resistors have odd values like 47k and 56k, but not 50k?

There is a good reason for these odd values and it is explained on the Resistors page.

A project on another website lists a 10kW resistor! What does it mean?

It almost certainly means a 10kohm resistor. This is a common error which occurs when the web page specifies a Greek font. If this font is not available on your computer you see the character in your standard font and it happens to be W which is the symbol for watt, the unit of power! I avoid the problem on this website by using a small image for ohm. In a few projects a low value resistor with a high power rating is required but the power will be something smaller like 5W, never 10kW which is more powerful than an electric heater!
Further information: Resistors
Soldering iron stand, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Soldering iron stand
Photograph © Rapid Electronics.

My soldering iron was supplied with a hook, do I really need to buy a stand as well?

For safety you must buy (or make) a stand for your soldering iron. Please don't use the hook because it leaves exposed the very hot element and tip of the iron - it is too easy to accidentally touch them and burn yourself. If you can't afford to buy a stand you could try making your own with a spiral of stiff galvanised iron wire (a coat-hanger?) screwed to a block of wood. Ideally the stand should include a damp sponge for safely wiping the tip of the iron when it needs cleaning.
Further information: Tools for Electronics | Soldering Guide

Where can I buy heatproof cable to replace the ordinary cable on my soldering iron?

Silicone heat resistant cable is sold in 1.5 metre lengths for exactly this purpose by Rapid Electronics, part number 85-0590 (look in the Soldering Equipment section). If you use another supplier make sure you buy 3-core mains flex with a current rating of 3A (the proper name for mains appliance leads is flex, not cable). Please note that to change over to the new flex you will need to borrow a second soldering iron! This is because the flex is soldered to the iron's element. Make sure that you connect the wires correctly in the iron and in the mains plug which should have a 3A fuse.
Further information: Tools for Electronics | Soldering Guide

My teacher says that Christmas tree lights are a series circuit, so when one lamp blew on Christmas Eve why didn't they all go out?

Traditional Christmas tree lights are connected in series and you are correct in thinking that if one lamp blows all the lamps should go out. The problem is that Christmas tree lights are not like ordinary lamps! When they blow they automatically short-circuit (they become like a wire link) so the circuit is still complete and the other lamps remain lit. This makes it easy to see the blown lamp, but do remember to switch off before changing it.
Teachers - please be careful when giving Christmas tree lights as an example of a series circuit!
Further information: Lamps | Series and Parallel Connections
Zero-ohm resistor

What component has a black stripe in the centre (it looks like a diode)?

A small component about the size of a resistor or signal diode with a single black stripe in the centre is a zero-ohm resistor, it is really just a wire link! These components are used on commercial PCBs because they are easier for machines to handle than small pieces of wire. The single black stripe is logical because it means zero in the resistor colour code. Ordinary resistors have at least four stripes. Diodes have a single stripe near one end, not in the centre.
Further information: Diodes | Resistors

What is a "short circuit"?

A "short circuit" is a connection of very low resistance such as a wire (almost 0ohm) which provides a very easy path for current. Think of it as an electrical short-cut. It is normally used to describe a fault or accidental connection rather than a deliberate one.
For example: if the leads from a battery touch one another they create a very low resistance connection across the battery, so we say they have caused a short circuit across the battery. Current will flow through this short circuit rather than through the proper circuit. This stops the circuit working and it may cause a fire because the leads and battery will become hot with a large current flowing.
Further information: Voltage and Current | Resistance

What does "open circuit" mean?

"Open circuit" means no connection. It is usually used to describe a break in some part of a circuit which could be deliberate (such as a switch in the open or off position) or a fault (such as a broken wire or burnt out component).
Further information: Voltage and Current | Resistance

How do I choose a relay to use with one of your projects?

The 555 timer IC used in many projects can supply current up to 200mA so it can power most relays directly. However, you must connect a signal diode (a 1N4148 for example) in parallel across the relay coil to protect the 555. Note that this diode is connected 'backwards' so that it will normally not conduct.
Further information: Relays | Diodes | Model Railway Signal (example project with relay)

I want to use a large number of LEDs, do I need a resistor for each one?

No, you can usually connect a few LEDs of the same type in series and just use one resistor. The number of LEDs you can connect in series depends on the circuit's supply voltage. This arrangement has the advantage of reducing the total current required by the circuit. Please see the LEDs page for more details:
Further information: Connecting LEDs in series

I want to build up a stock of components, what should I buy first?

Most people build their first few projects from complete kits, but if you want to try adapting published projects or designing and building your own circuits you will need to have a small stock of components available. There is a page with advice on buying a starter kit of components.
Further information: Starter kit | Links (for suppliers)

What is a Darlington pair?

A Darlington pair is two transistors connected together so that the current amplified by the first is further amplified by the second transistor, giving a very high gain of 10000 or so.
Further information: Transistors

What does 'sinking a current' mean?

It means current is flowing into the output of an IC. This happens when the output is low (0V) if there is a device connected between the positive supply (+Vs) and the output. It is the opposite of sourcing a current which means current is flowing out of the output. Most IC outputs can both sink and source current.
Further information: Integrated Circuits (Chips)

Are 'time period' and 'time constant' the same thing?

No, they have different meanings although both are time. Time period is the duration of a single pulse or the time for one cycle of a repeating electrical signal. Time constant is a property of a changing system, such as a capacitor charging and discharging.
Further information, time period: Electrical Signals | Astable | Monostable | time costant: Capacitance

What is a PIC?

A PIC is a Programmable Integrated Circuit microcontroller, a 'computer-on-a-chip'. They have a processor and memory to run a program responding to inputs and controlling outputs, so they can easily achieve complex functions which would require several conventional ICs. I can strongly recommend the PICAXE system because it is easy to program (and re-program) the PICs with a standard computer - no specialist equipment is required other than a low-cost download lead. The programming software and extensive documentation is available to download free of charge, making the system ideal for education and users at home.
Further information (including downloads): www.picaxe.co.uk

Why does my circuit count 3 or 4 when I press the switch once?

switch bounce
The bouncing output
from a switch
This is likely to happen if a switch is connected directly to the clock input of a counter. Switches contacts tend to rapidly bounce open and closed a few times when the switch is operated. The counter sees this as several clock pulses, not the single pulse you expect. One solution is to make the switch trigger a monostable circuit with a short time constant (0.1s for example) and use this to drive the clock input.
Further information: Counting Circuits | 555 Monostable Circuit

What software do you use to draw the circuit diagrams?

I created the circuit diagrams (and all the other drawings on the website) using a vector drawing application called Draw. It comes as standard with all RISC OS computers, but is not available for Windows computers. The diagrams are converted to GIFs for the website for maximum compatibility.
Further information: Circuit Diagrams | RISC OS

What is a schematic?

It is a circuit diagram.
Further information: Circuit Diagrams

What does 'SMD' mean?

'SMD' means Surface Mount Device. SMDs are components with small pads instead of leads for their contacts. They are designed for soldering by machine onto specially designed PCBs and are not suitable for educational or hobby circuits constructed on breadboard or stripboard. Do not buy SMD components for your projects!

I'm interested in electronics, where should I start?

I suggest that you start with a few simple projects, learning how to solder and how to identify the common components. You will need some tools to construct the projects. It is best to buy kits to be sure you have the correct parts and RSH Electronics sell kits for all the projects on this website.

Many people then want to start learning how the circuits work and maybe try designing their own, usually by adapting a published circuit. You can use the study section of this website, or see the list of books suitable for beginners. At this stage it is worth buying a breadboard for trying out circuits without soldering so that changes can be easily made and the parts re-used. The 555 timer circuits are great for simple projects

Circuit Symbols

 

Wires | Supplies | Output devices | Switches | Resistors | Capacitors | Diodes | Transistors | Audio & Radio | Meters | Sensors | Logic gates | Download symbols

Next Page: Electricity and the Electron
Also see: Circuit Diagrams

Circuit symbols are used in circuit diagrams which show how a circuit is connected together. The actual layout of the components is usually quite different from the circuit diagram. To build a circuit you need a different diagram showing the layout of the parts on stripboard or printed circuit board.

Wires and connections

Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
Wire wire symbol To pass current very easily from one part of a circuit to another.
Wires joined wires joined symbol A 'blob' should be drawn where wires are connected (joined), but it is sometimes omitted. Wires connected at 'crossroads' should be staggered slightly to form two T-junctions, as shown on the right.
Wires not joined wires crossing but not joined symbol In complex diagrams it is often necessary to draw wires crossing even though they are not connected. I prefer the 'bridge' symbol shown on the right because the simple crossing on the left may be misread as a join where you have forgotten to add a 'blob'!

Power Supplies

Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
Cell cell symbol Supplies electrical energy.
The larger terminal (on the left) is positive (+).
A single cell is often called a battery, but strictly a battery is two or more cells joined together.
Battery battery symbol Supplies electrical energy. A battery is more than one cell.
The larger terminal (on the left) is positive (+).
DC supply DC power supply symbol Supplies electrical energy.
DC = Direct Current, always flowing in one direction.
AC supply AC power supply symbol Supplies electrical energy.
AC = Alternating Current, continually changing direction.
Fuse fuse symbol A safety device which will 'blow' (melt) if the current flowing through it exceeds a specified value.
Transformer transformer symbol Two coils of wire linked by an iron core. Transformers are used to step up (increase) and step down (decrease) AC voltages. Energy is transferred between the coils by the magnetic field in the core. There is no electrical connection between the coils.
Earth
(Ground)
earth symbol A connection to earth. For many electronic circuits this is the 0V (zero volts) of the power supply, but for mains electricity and some radio circuits it really means the earth. It is also known as ground.

Output Devices: Lamps, Heater, Motor, etc.

Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
Lamp (lighting) lamp (lighting) symbol A transducer which converts electrical energy to light. This symbol is used for a lamp providing illumination, for example a car headlamp or torch bulb.
Lamp (indicator) lamp (indicator) symbol A transducer which converts electrical energy to light. This symbol is used for a lamp which is an indicator, for example a warning light on a car dashboard.
Heater heater symbol A transducer which converts electrical energy to heat.
Motor motor symbol A transducer which converts electrical energy to kinetic energy (motion).
Bell bell symbol A transducer which converts electrical energy to sound.
Buzzer buzzer symbol A transducer which converts electrical energy to sound.
Inductor
(Coil, Solenoid)
inductor symbol A coil of wire which creates a magnetic field when current passes through it. It may have an iron core inside the coil. It can be used as a transducer converting electrical energy to mechanical energy by pulling on something.

Switches

Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
Push Switch
(push-to-make)
push-to-make switch symbol A push switch allows current to flow only when the button is pressed. This is the switch used to operate a doorbell.
Push-to-Break Switch push-to-break switch symbol This type of push switch is normally closed (on), it is open (off) only when the button is pressed.
On-Off Switch
(SPST)
SPST on-off switch symbol SPST = Single Pole, Single Throw.
An on-off switch allows current to flow only when it is in the closed (on) position.
2-way Switch
(SPDT)
SPDT switch symbol SPDT = Single Pole, Double Throw.
A 2-way changeover switch directs the flow of current to one of two routes according to its position. Some SPDT switches have a central off position and are described as 'on-off-on'.
Dual On-Off Switch
(DPST)
DPST switch symbol DPST = Double Pole, Single Throw.
A dual on-off switch which is often used to switch mains electricity because it can isolate both the live and neutral connections.
Reversing Switch
(DPDT)
DPDT switch symbol DPDT = Double Pole, Double Throw.
This switch can be wired up as a reversing switch for a motor. Some DPDT switches have a central off position.
Relay relay symbol An electrically operated switch, for example a 9V battery circuit connected to the coil can switch a 230V AC mains circuit.
NO = Normally Open, COM = Common, NC = Normally Closed.

Resistors

Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
Resistor resistor symbol A resistor restricts the flow of current, for example to limit the current passing through an LED. A resistor is used with a capacitor in a timing circuit.
Some publications still use the old resistor symbol: old zig-zag resistor symbol
Variable Resistor
(Rheostat)
rheostat symbol This type of variable resistor with 2 contacts (a rheostat) is usually used to control current. Examples include: adjusting lamp brightness, adjusting motor speed, and adjusting the rate of flow of charge into a capacitor in a timing circuit.
Variable Resistor
(Potentiometer)
potentiometer symbol This type of variable resistor with 3 contacts (a potentiometer) is usually used to control voltage. It can be used like this as a transducer converting position (angle of the control spindle) to an electrical signal.
Variable Resistor
(Preset)
preset symbol This type of variable resistor (a preset) is operated with a small screwdriver or similar tool. It is designed to be set when the circuit is made and then left without further adjustment. Presets are cheaper than normal variable resistors so they are often used in projects to reduce the cost.

Capacitors

Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
Capacitor capacitor symbol A capacitor stores electric charge. A capacitor is used with a resistor in a timing circuit. It can also be used as a filter, to block DC signals but pass AC signals.
Capacitor, polarised polarised capacitor symbol A capacitor stores electric charge. This type must be connected the correct way round. A capacitor is used with a resistor in a timing circuit. It can also be used as a filter, to block DC signals but pass AC signals.
Variable Capacitor variable capacitor symbol A variable capacitor is used in a radio tuner.
Trimmer Capacitor trimmer capacitor symbol This type of variable capacitor (a trimmer) is operated with a small screwdriver or similar tool. It is designed to be set when the circuit is made and then left without further adjustment.

Diodes

Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
Diode diode symbol A device which only allows current to flow in one direction.
LED
Light Emitting Diode
LED symbol A transducer which converts electrical energy to light.
Zener Diode zener diode symbol A special diode which is used to maintain a fixed voltage across its terminals.
Photodiode photodiode symbol A light-sensitive diode.

Transistors

Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
Transistor NPN NPN transistor symbol A transistor amplifies current. It can be used with other components to make an amplifier or switching circuit.
Transistor PNP PNP transistor symbol A transistor amplifies current. It can be used with other components to make an amplifier or switching circuit.
Phototransistor Phototransistor symbol A light-sensitive transistor.

Audio and Radio Devices

Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
Microphone microphone symbol A transducer which converts sound to electrical energy.
Earphone earphone symbol A transducer which converts electrical energy to sound.
Loudspeaker loudspeaker symbol A transducer which converts electrical energy to sound.
Piezo Transducer piezo transducer symbol A transducer which converts electrical energy to sound.
Amplifier
(general symbol)
amplifier symbol An amplifier circuit with one input. Really it is a block diagram symbol because it represents a circuit rather than just one component.
Aerial
(Antenna)
aerial symbol A device which is designed to receive or transmit radio signals. It is also known as an antenna.

Meters and Oscilloscope

Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
Voltmeter voltmeter symbol A voltmeter is used to measure voltage.
The proper name for voltage is 'potential difference', but most people prefer to say voltage!
Ammeter ammeter symbol An ammeter is used to measure current.
Galvanometer galvanometer symbol A galvanometer is a very sensitive meter which is used to measure tiny currents, usually 1mA or less.
Ohmmeter ohmmeter symbol An ohmmeter is used to measure resistance. Most multimeters have an ohmmeter setting.
Oscilloscope oscilloscope symbol An oscilloscope is used to display the shape of electrical signals and it can be used to measure their voltage and time period.

Sensors (input devices)

Component Circuit Symbol Function of Component
LDR LDR symbol A transducer which converts brightness (light) to resistance (an electrical property).
LDR = Light Dependent Resistor
Thermistor thermistor symbol A transducer which converts temperature (heat) to resistance (an electrical property).

Logic Gates

Logic gates process signals which represent true (1, high, +Vs, on) or false (0, low, 0V, off).
For more information please see the Logic Gates page.
There are two sets of symbols: traditional and IEC (International Electrotechnical Commission).
Gate Type Traditional Symbol IEC Symbol Function of Gate
NOT NOT gate traditional symbol NOT gate IEC symbol A NOT gate can only have one input. The 'o' on the output means 'not'. The output of a NOT gate is the inverse (opposite) of its input, so the output is true when the input is false. A NOT gate is also called an inverter.
AND AND gate traditional symbol AND gate IEC symbol An AND gate can have two or more inputs. The output of an AND gate is true when all its inputs are true.
NAND NAND gate traditional symbol NAND gate IEC symbol A NAND gate can have two or more inputs. The 'o' on the output means 'not' showing that it is a Not AND gate. The output of a NAND gate is true unless all its inputs are true.
OR OR gate traditional symbol OR gate IEC symbol An OR gate can have two or more inputs. The output of an OR gate is true when at least one of its inputs is true.
NOR NOR gate traditional symbol NOR gate IEC symbol A NOR gate can have two or more inputs. The 'o' on the output means 'not' showing that it is a Not OR gate. The output of a NOR gate is true when none of its inputs are true.
EX-OR EX-OR gate traditional symbol EX-OR gate IEC symbol An EX-OR gate can only have two inputs. The output of an EX-OR gate is true when its inputs are different (one true, one false).
EX-NOR EX-NOR gate traditional symbol EX-NOR gate IEC symbol An EX-NOR gate can only have two inputs. The 'o' on the output means 'not' showing that it is a Not EX-OR gate. The output of an EX-NOR gate is true when its inputs are the same (both true or both false).

Sets of circuit symbols to download

You can download complete sets of all the circuit symbols shown above. The sets are 'zipped' for convenience and they are provided in three formats:
  • WMF circuit symbols (32K) - Windows Metafiles.
    These vector drawings are the best format for printed documents on most computer systems, including Windows where they can be used in Word documents for example. They can be enlarged without loss of quality. If you are not sure which format is best for you I suggest you try this one first.

  • GIF circuit symbols (43K) - Graphics Interchange Format.
    These bitmap images are the best format for web pages but they print poorly and their bitmap nature will become obvious if they are enlarged. You can download individual symbols by saving the images used above on this page.

  • Drawfile circuit symbols (29K) - for RISC OS (Acorn) computers.
    These high quality vector drawings are suitable for almost all documents on a RISC OS computer. All the symbols were originally drawn in this format. They print perfectly and can be enlarged without loss of quality. Sorry, this format is NOT suitable for Windows computers.

Stripboard

 

Placing components | Cutting tracks | Planning a layout | Example plan

Also see: Breadboard | PCB | Types of Circuit Board


Stripboard
Stripboard circuit (copper tracks side)
Stripboard has parallel strips of copper track on one side. The tracks are 0.1" (2.54mm) apart and there are holes every 0.1" (2.54mm).

Stripboard is used to make up permanent, soldered circuits. It is ideal for small circuits with one or two ICs (chips) but with the large number of holes it is very easy to connect a component in the wrong place. For large, complex circuits it is usually best to use a printed circuit board (PCB) if you can buy or make one.

Stripboard requires no special preparation other than cutting to size. It can be cut with a junior hacksaw, or simply snap it along the lines of holes by putting it over the edge of a bench or table and pushing hard, but take care because this needs a fairly large force and the edges will be rough. You may need to use a large pair of pliers to nibble away any jagged parts.

Avoid handling stripboard that you are not planning to use immediately because sweat from your hands will corrode the copper tracks and this will make soldering difficult. If the copper looks dull, or you can clearly see finger marks, clean the tracks with fine emery paper, a PCB rubber or a dry kitchen scrub before you start soldering.


Placing components on stripboard

stripboard Components are placed on the non-copper side, then the stripboard is turned over to solder the component leads to the copper tracks.

Stripboard layouts are shown from the component side, so the tracks are out of sight under the board. Layouts are normally shown with the tracks running horizontally across the diagram.

Placing components on stripboard requires care. The large number of holes means it is very easy to make a mistake! For most small circuits the best method is to very carefully place the IC holder(s) in the correct position and solder in place. Then you can position all the other components relative to the IC holder(s).

Minor position errors left and right will not usually be a problem because the component will still be connected to the correct tracks. However, up and down position errors must be avoided because just one hole too high or too low will connect the component to the wrong track and therefore the wrong part of the circuit.

Some people like to label the holes with letters (up/down) and numbers (across) to give each hole a 'grid reference' but this still requires careful counting of holes.


Cutting stripboard tracks

Track cutter, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Track cutter
Photograph © Rapid Electronics
Most stripboard circuits will need to have some tracks cut to break the connection at that point. This is always necessary under ICs, except for the rare cases where opposite pins must be connected. The tracks are cut with a special track cutter tool or a 3mm drill bit.

Places where the tracks must be broken are usually shown with a cross (X). The cuts are made on the underside (copper side) so extra care is needed to identify the correct hole. It is best to cut the track after soldering because the solder joints will make it easier to identify the correct position.

Place the track cutter on the correct hole and twist it to and fro using moderate force. The aim is to break the copper track, not drill a hole through the board! Inspect the cut closely to ensure there is no fine thread of copper left across the break, because even the tiniest piece will conduct.


Planning a stripboard layout

Converting a circuit diagram to a stripboard layout is not straightforward because the arrangement of components is quite different. Concentrate on the connections between components, not their positions on the circuit diagram.

Collect all the parts you will be using in the circuit so you can use a piece of stripboard to work out the minimum space they require. For some components (such as IC holders) the space required is fixed, but for others you can increase the space to obtain a better layout. For example most resistors require at least 3 hole-spacings if they are to lie flat on the board, but they can easily span across a greater distance.

resistors mounted vertically and horizontally If necessary resistors can be mounted vertically between adjacent tracks (0.1" spacing) as shown in the diagram. This arrangement can help to produce a simpler layout but the tracks are more likely to be damaged if the resistor is knocked. If you are designing a stripboard layout for a serious long-term purpose it is best to mount all resistors horizontally.

Plan the layout with a pencil and paper (or on computer if you have suitable software) and check your plan very carefully against the circuit diagram BEFORE you attempt to solder any part of the circuit. The best way to explain the planning process is by example, so there is a step-by-step example to follow below.

Download a Stripboard Planning Sheet

The Planning Sheet is supplied as a PDF file, to view and print it you need an Acrobat Reader which may be downloaded free for Windows, Mac, RISC OS, or UNIX/Linux computers. If you are not sure which type of computer you have it is probably Windows.
To make planning easier it is best to use paper marked with a 0.1" grid to match the spacing of stripboard holes. You can use graph paper or try our Stripboard Planning Sheet which you can download and print out.

Working 'real size' on a 0.1" grid makes it easy to allow the correct space for components, but you will need to draw very neatly. If you prefer to work at an enlarged scale you can use a piece of stripboard for measuring component sizes in 'number of holes'.

IC pin numbers

IC pin numbers

IC pins are numbered anti-clockwise around the IC starting near the notch or dot. The diagram shows the numbering for 8-pin and 14-pin ICs, but the principle is the same for all sizes.


Components without suitable leads

Soldering leads onto switches Some components such as switches and variable resistors do not have suitable leads of their own so you must solder some on yourself. Use stranded plastic-coated wire, single-core wire is not suitable unless the circuit is going to be permanently mounted in a box with no flexing of the wires.

Planning an example stripboard layout

When planning a stripboard layout you must concentrate on the connections between components, not their positions on the circuit diagram. The best way to explain the planning process is by example, so the section below explains the process step-by-step for a 555 astable circuit which flashes an LED.

The stripboard tracks are horizontal in all the diagrams.

555 astable circuit diagram
Astable Circuit Diagram

The circuit diagram

The circuit diagram is the starting point for any stripboard layout, even if you have already built a trial circuit on breadboard.

The LED flashes at a rate determined by the resistors R1 and R2 and the capacitor C1. R1 must be at least 1kohm and both R1 and R2 should not be more than 1Mohm. To select a value for the LED resistor R3 please see the LEDs page.

LED on time: Tm = 0.7 × (R1 + R2) × C1
LED off time: Ts = 0.7 × R2 × C1
T = Tm + Ts = 0.7 × (R1 + 2R2) × C1
Frequency (flashes per second), f = 1/T
Tm and Ts are about equal if R2 is much larger than R1.

For further information please see 555 astable.

Planning the layout

    planning a stripboard layout: IC, supply, wire links
  1. Place the IC holder near the centre of your planning sheet with pin 1 at the top left (as in the diagram). You may find it helpful to number the pins.

  2. Mark breaks in each track under the IC holder with a cross (X). The breaks prevent opposite pins of the IC being connected together. The track beside each pin of the IC is connected to that pin, the diagram shows this for pins 3 and 6.

  3. Mark the power supply tracks +Vs and 0V, choose tracks which are 2 or 3 spaces above and below the IC holder as shown in the diagram.

  4. Now add the wire links. Draw a 'blob' () at each end of a link. The links are vertical because the stripboard tracks make the horizontal connections. Tinned copper wire (with no insulation) can be used for these links unless there is a risk of them touching other wires (in which case use single core insulated wire). Work round the IC pin-by-pin from pin 1.

    • Draw all the direct links to the supply tracks (+Vs and 0V). The diagram shows pin 1 connected to 0V and pins 4 and 8 connected to +Vs.

    • Draw any links required between pins on the same side of the IC. There are none in the example, but these links are straightforward to add.

    • Links to pins on the other side of the IC require more thought. If the pins happen to be opposite one another you can erase the track break (X) between them. Otherwise the pins can be linked by connecting both of them to an unused track above or below the IC. The diagram shows pins 2 and 6 linked in this way. Another method is to link them with insulated wire bent around the IC (see the Flashing LED project for example).

    planning a stripboard layout: adding components

  5. Add components which will be mounted on the stripboard such as resistors, capacitors and diodes. Make sure you allow for their size which determines the minimum number of holes, and sometimes the maximum as well. This is usually the most difficult stage of planning a layout so expect to change your plan several times! Remember to label the components, otherwise it will become confusing once there are several on the plan.

    Connections which do not involve the IC are made using an unused track. For example resistor R3 and the LED are connected by an unused track above the IC.

    Watch for alternative arrangements using the links you have already made. For example the LED needs to connect to 0V but it is a long stretch to the 0V track. It is easier to connect the LED to the same track as pin 1 of the IC because that track is already connected to 0V by a wire link.

    Resistor R2 needs to connect from pin 7 to pin 6 and it could do this directly by mounting it vertically. However, it has been connected from pin 7 to the track used to link pins 2 and 6, the extra space this gives allows R2 to lie horizontally on the board.


    planning a stripboard layout: adding wires

  6. Add wires to components which will be off the stripboard such as switches. These should normally be on the left and right at the edges of the board. Start by adding the battery clip or power supply leads to the +Vs and 0V tracks. Connections for the other off-board components are usually easy because you do not need to allow for their size, just draw wires to the correct tracks.

  7. Check your plan very carefully by checking every connection shown on the circuit diagram. A good way to do this is to work round the IC pin-by-pin. Check all the connections and components connected to pin 1, then move on to pin 2, and so on.


    planning a stripboard layout: improving the plan

  8. Look for ways to improve your plan. For example it may be possible to eliminate an unused track by moving a supply track nearer to the IC - but make sure there is still sufficient space for the components. It may also be possible to move links and components closer to the IC horizontally to make the area of board required a little smaller.

    Unused tracks above and below the IC have been eliminated in the example. This affected two components, resistor R1 and capacitor C1, but both will still fit in the reduced space. The plan could be compressed a little further by moving components and links closer to the IC horizontally but this has not been done.


    planning a stripboard layout: final version

  9. Finally, check your plan again and make a neat copy fully labelled with all the component references or values. Work out the size of stripboard required. Notice that an extra hole has been allowed on the left and right to avoid soldering at the end of a track. Joints made at the end of a track are likely to break because the small piece of track beyond the last hole easily breaks away from the board.

    It is tempting to rush straight into soldering the circuit, but do check your plan carefully first. It is much easier to correct errors on the plan than it is to correct to correct them on the soldered board!


This example plan is just one of the many possible layouts for the circuit. The Flashing LED project uses the same circuit, but the stripboard plan is quite different. In this case the aim was to have the minimum number of wire links.
The completed stripboard layout and the circuit diagram for comparison:

Flashing LED Circuit

planning a stripboard layout: final version

555 astable circuit diagram

Relays

 

Choosing a relay | Protection diodes | Reed relays | Advantages & disadvantages

Also see: Switches | Diodes

relay symbol
Circuit symbol for a relay
Relay, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Relay, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Relays

Photographs © Rapid Electronics

working relay
Relay showing coil and switch contacts
A relay is an electrically operated switch. Current flowing through the coil of the relay creates a magnetic field which attracts a lever and changes the switch contacts. The coil current can be on or off so relays have two switch positions and most have double throw (changeover) switch contacts as shown in the diagram.

Relays allow one circuit to switch a second circuit which can be completely separate from the first. For example a low voltage battery circuit can use a relay to switch a 230V AC mains circuit. There is no electrical connection inside the relay between the two circuits, the link is magnetic and mechanical.

The coil of a relay passes a relatively large current, typically 30mA for a 12V relay, but it can be as much as 100mA for relays designed to operate from lower voltages. Most ICs (chips) cannot provide this current and a transistor is usually used to amplify the small IC current to the larger value required for the relay coil. The maximum output current for the popular 555 timer IC is 200mA so these devices can supply relay coils directly without amplification.

Relays are usuallly SPDT or DPDT but they can have many more sets of switch contacts, for example relays with 4 sets of changeover contacts are readily available. For further information about switch contacts and the terms used to describe them please see the page on switches.

Most relays are designed for PCB mounting but you can solder wires directly to the pins providing you take care to avoid melting the plastic case of the relay.

The supplier's catalogue should show you the relay's connections. The coil will be obvious and it may be connected either way round. Relay coils produce brief high voltage 'spikes' when they are switched off and this can destroy transistors and ICs in the circuit. To prevent damage you must connect a protection diode across the relay coil.

The animated picture shows a working relay with its coil and switch contacts. You can see a lever on the left being attracted by magnetism when the coil is switched on. This lever moves the switch contacts. There is one set of contacts (SPDT) in the foreground and another behind them, making the relay DPDT.


The relay's switch connections are usually labelled COM, NC and NO:

  • COM = Common, always connect to this, it is the moving part of the switch.
  • NC = Normally Closed, COM is connected to this when the relay coil is off.
  • NO = Normally Open, COM is connected to this when the relay coil is on.

  • Connect to COM and NO if you want the switched circuit to be on when the relay coil is on.
  • Connect to COM and NC if you want the switched circuit to be on when the relay coil is off.

Choosing a relay

You need to consider several features when choosing a relay:
  1. Physical size and pin arrangement
    If you are choosing a relay for an existing PCB you will need to ensure that its dimensions and pin arrangement are suitable. You should find this information in the supplier's catalogue.
  2. Coil voltage
    The relay's coil voltage rating and resistance must suit the circuit powering the relay coil. Many relays have a coil rated for a 12V supply but 5V and 24V relays are also readily available. Some relays operate perfectly well with a supply voltage which is a little lower than their rated value.
  3. Coil resistance
    The circuit must be able to supply the current required by the relay coil. You can use Ohm's law to calculate the current:
    Relay coil current = supply voltage
    coil resistance
    For example: A 12V supply relay with a coil resistance of 400ohm passes a current of 30mA. This is OK for a 555 timer IC (maximum output current 200mA), but it is too much for most ICs and they will require a transistor to amplify the current.
  4. Switch ratings (voltage and current)
    The relay's switch contacts must be suitable for the circuit they are to control. You will need to check the voltage and current ratings. Note that the voltage rating is usually higher for AC, for example: "5A at 24V DC or 125V AC".
  5. Switch contact arrangement (SPDT, DPDT etc)
    Most relays are SPDT or DPDT which are often described as "single pole changeover" (SPCO) or "double pole changeover" (DPCO). For further information please see the page on switches.

Protection diodes for relays

Protection diode for a relay Transistors and ICs must be protected from the brief high voltage produced when a relay coil is switched off. The diagram shows how a signal diode (eg 1N4148) is connected 'backwards' across the relay coil to provide this protection.

Current flowing through a relay coil creates a magnetic field which collapses suddenly when the current is switched off. The sudden collapse of the magnetic field induces a brief high voltage across the relay coil which is very likely to damage transistors and ICs. The protection diode allows the induced voltage to drive a brief current through the coil (and diode) so the magnetic field dies away quickly rather than instantly. This prevents the induced voltage becoming high enough to cause damage to transistors and ICs.


Reed relays

Reed Relay, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Reed Relay

Photograph © Rapid Electronics

Reed relays consist of a coil surrounding a reed switch. Reed switches are normally operated with a magnet, but in a reed relay current flows through the coil to create a magnetic field and close the reed switch.

Reed relays generally have higher coil resistances than standard relays (1000ohm for example) and a wide range of supply voltages (9-20V for example). They are capable of switching much more rapidly than standard relays, up to several hundred times per second; but they can only switch low currents (500mA maximum for example).

The reed relay shown in the photograph will plug into a standard 14-pin DIL socket ('IC holder').

For further information about reed switches please see the page on switches.


Relays and transistors compared

Like relays, transistors can be used as an electrically operated switch. For switching small DC currents (< 1A) at low voltage they are usually a better choice than a relay. However, transistors cannot switch AC (such as mains electricity) and in simple circuits they are not usually a good choice for switching large currents (> 5A). In these cases a relay will be needed, but note that a low power transistor may still be needed to switch the current for the relay's coil! The main advantages and disadvantages of relays are listed below:

Advantages of relays:

  • Relays can switch AC and DC, transistors can only switch DC.
  • Relays can switch higher voltages than standard transistors.
  • Relays are often a better choice for switching large currents (> 5A).
  • Relays can switch many contacts at once.
Disadvantages of relays:
  • Relays are bulkier than transistors for switching small currents.
  • Relays cannot switch rapidly (except reed relays), transistors can switch many times per second.
  • Relays use more power due to the current flowing through their coil.
  • Relays require more current than many ICs can provide, so a low power transistor may be needed to switch the current for the relay's coil.


Further information

For further information about relays please see the Electronics in Meccano website.

Lamps

 

Function | Symbols | Selecting | Types of lamp | Connecting

Lamp

Function and Construction

Lamps emit light when an electric current passes through them. All of the lamps shown on this page have a thin wire filament which becomes very hot and glows brightly when a current passes through it. The filament is made from a metal with a high melting point such as tungsten and it is usually wound into a small coil. Filament lamps have a shorter lifetime than most electronic components because eventually the filament 'blows' (melts) at a weak point.

Circuit symbols

There are two circuit symbols for a lamp, one for a lamp used to provide illumination and another for a lamp used as an indicator. Small lamps such as torch bulbs can be used for both purposes so either circuit symbol may used in simple educational circuits.
lamp (lighting) symbol lamp (indicator) symbol
Lamp used for lighting
(for example a car headlamp or torch bulb)
Lamp used as an indicator
(for example a warning light on a car dashboard)


Selecting a Lamp

There are three important features to consider when selecting a lamp:
  • Voltage rating - the supply voltage for normal brightness.
  • Power or current rating - small lamps are usually rated by current.
  • Lamp type - please see the table below.
The voltage and power (or current) ratings are usually printed or embossed on the body of a lamp.

Voltage rating

Lamp This is the supply voltage required for normal brightness. If a slightly higher voltage is used the lamp will be brighter but its lifetime will be shorter. With a lower supply voltage the lamp will be dimmer and its lifetime will be longer. The light from dim lamps has a yellow-orange colour.

Torch lamps pass a relatively large current and this significantly reduces the output voltage of the battery. Some voltage is used up inside the battery driving the large current through the small resistance of the battery itself (its 'internal resistance'). As a result the correct voltage rating for a torch lamp is lower than the normal voltage of the battery which lights it!

For example: a lamp rated 3.5V 0.3A is correct for a 4.5V battery (three 1.5V cells) because when the lamp is connected the voltage across the battery falls to about 3.5V.

Power or current rating

This is the power or current for the lamp when connected to its rated voltage. Low power lamps are usually rated by their current and high power lamps by their power. It is easy to convert between the two ratings:

P = I × V
or
I = P / V
where: P = power in watts (W)
I = current in amps (A)
V = voltage in volts (V)

Examples:
  • A lamp rated 3.5V 0.3A has a power rating P = I × V = 0.3 × 3.5 = 1.05W
  • A lamp rated 6V 0.06A has a power rating P = I × V = 0.06 × 6 = 0.36W
  • A lamp rated 12V 2.4W has a current rating I = P / V = 2.4 / 12 = 0.2A

Lamp Type

Type of Lamp Example
MES Miniature Edison Screw
These are the standard small lamps. The bulb diameter is usually about 10mm, but tubular bulbs are also available. MES lamps have one contact on the base and the body forms the other contact. They are available with a good range of voltage and power (or current) ratings. Lens ended versions are available to produce a focused beam of light.

LES Lilliput Edison Screw
Smaller than MES, these have a bulb diameter of about 5mm.

Photograph © Rapid Electronics

MES lamp
MCC Miniature Centre Contact
These have a bayonet style fitting, like a standard mains lamp in the UK. They have one contact on the base and the body forms the other contact. The bulb diameter is about 10mm.

Photograph © Rapid Electronics

MCC lamp
SBC Small Bayonet Cap
These have a bayonet style fitting, like a standard mains lamp in the UK. They have two contacts on the base so the metal body is not connected in the circuit. SBC lamps have high power ratings (24W for example) and their bulbs are large with a diameter of up to about 40mm. Note the two filament arrangements in the lamps shown, horizontal on the left, vertical on the right.

Photograph © Rapid Electronics

SBC lamps and holder
Pre-focus
This type of lamp is used in torches and lanterns. The flange at the top of the metal body is used to hold the lamp in place. Lampholders are not readily available so this type is unsuitable for most projects.

Photograph © Rapid Electronics

Pre-focus lamp
Wire ended
These are very small lamps with a bulb about 3mm diameter and 6mm long. Take care to avoid snapping the wires where they enter the glass bulb.

Photograph © Rapid Electronics

Wire ended lamp
Grain of Wheat
These are similar to the wire ended lamps above but they have stranded wire leads usually about 150mm long. The bulb is about 3mm diameter and 6mm long - the size of a grain of wheat!

Photograph © Rapid Electronics

Grain of wheat lamp
Click here for Rapid Electronics Rapid Electronics stock a wide range of lamps and they have kindly allowed me to use their photographs on this page. The photographs are from their Image Gallery CD-ROM.

lampholder lampholder
screw terminals solder tags
Lampholders

Photographs © Rapid Electronics

Connecting and soldering

Lamps may be connected either way round in a circuit and the supply may be AC or DC.

Most lamps are designed to be used in a lampholder but the small 'wire ended' and 'grain of wheat' lamps have wires which may be soldered directly onto a circuit board.

Lampholders usually have screw terminals or solder tags to attach wires. Some small holders have contacts which may be soldered directly to a circuit board.

Lamps in Series

Lamps in series Several lamps can be successfully connected in series provided they all have identical voltage and power (or current) ratings. The supply voltage is divided equally between identical lamps so their voltage rating must be suitable for this. For example Christmas tree lights may have 20 lamps connected in series to a 240V supply, so each lamp will have 240V ÷ 20 = 12V across it.

A disadvantage of connecting lamps in series is that if one lamp blows all of them will go out because the circuit is broken. Christmas tree lamps have a special feature to overcome this problem; they are designed to short circuit (conduct like a wire link) when they blow, so the circuit is not broken and the other lamps remain lit, making it easier to locate the faulty lamp. Sets also include one 'fuse' lamp which blows normally.

Lamps

 

Function | Symbols | Selecting | Types of lamp | Connecting

Lamp

Function and Construction

Lamps emit light when an electric current passes through them. All of the lamps shown on this page have a thin wire filament which becomes very hot and glows brightly when a current passes through it. The filament is made from a metal with a high melting point such as tungsten and it is usually wound into a small coil. Filament lamps have a shorter lifetime than most electronic components because eventually the filament 'blows' (melts) at a weak point.

Circuit symbols

There are two circuit symbols for a lamp, one for a lamp used to provide illumination and another for a lamp used as an indicator. Small lamps such as torch bulbs can be used for both purposes so either circuit symbol may used in simple educational circuits.
lamp (lighting) symbol lamp (indicator) symbol
Lamp used for lighting
(for example a car headlamp or torch bulb)
Lamp used as an indicator
(for example a warning light on a car dashboard)


Selecting a Lamp

There are three important features to consider when selecting a lamp:
  • Voltage rating - the supply voltage for normal brightness.
  • Power or current rating - small lamps are usually rated by current.
  • Lamp type - please see the table below.
The voltage and power (or current) ratings are usually printed or embossed on the body of a lamp.

Voltage rating

Lamp This is the supply voltage required for normal brightness. If a slightly higher voltage is used the lamp will be brighter but its lifetime will be shorter. With a lower supply voltage the lamp will be dimmer and its lifetime will be longer. The light from dim lamps has a yellow-orange colour.

Torch lamps pass a relatively large current and this significantly reduces the output voltage of the battery. Some voltage is used up inside the battery driving the large current through the small resistance of the battery itself (its 'internal resistance'). As a result the correct voltage rating for a torch lamp is lower than the normal voltage of the battery which lights it!

For example: a lamp rated 3.5V 0.3A is correct for a 4.5V battery (three 1.5V cells) because when the lamp is connected the voltage across the battery falls to about 3.5V.

Power or current rating

This is the power or current for the lamp when connected to its rated voltage. Low power lamps are usually rated by their current and high power lamps by their power. It is easy to convert between the two ratings:

P = I × V
or
I = P / V
where: P = power in watts (W)
I = current in amps (A)
V = voltage in volts (V)

Examples:
  • A lamp rated 3.5V 0.3A has a power rating P = I × V = 0.3 × 3.5 = 1.05W
  • A lamp rated 6V 0.06A has a power rating P = I × V = 0.06 × 6 = 0.36W
  • A lamp rated 12V 2.4W has a current rating I = P / V = 2.4 / 12 = 0.2A

Lamp Type

Type of Lamp Example
MES Miniature Edison Screw
These are the standard small lamps. The bulb diameter is usually about 10mm, but tubular bulbs are also available. MES lamps have one contact on the base and the body forms the other contact. They are available with a good range of voltage and power (or current) ratings. Lens ended versions are available to produce a focused beam of light.

LES Lilliput Edison Screw
Smaller than MES, these have a bulb diameter of about 5mm.

Photograph © Rapid Electronics

MES lamp
MCC Miniature Centre Contact
These have a bayonet style fitting, like a standard mains lamp in the UK. They have one contact on the base and the body forms the other contact. The bulb diameter is about 10mm.

Photograph © Rapid Electronics

MCC lamp
SBC Small Bayonet Cap
These have a bayonet style fitting, like a standard mains lamp in the UK. They have two contacts on the base so the metal body is not connected in the circuit. SBC lamps have high power ratings (24W for example) and their bulbs are large with a diameter of up to about 40mm. Note the two filament arrangements in the lamps shown, horizontal on the left, vertical on the right.

Photograph © Rapid Electronics

SBC lamps and holder
Pre-focus
This type of lamp is used in torches and lanterns. The flange at the top of the metal body is used to hold the lamp in place. Lampholders are not readily available so this type is unsuitable for most projects.

Photograph © Rapid Electronics

Pre-focus lamp
Wire ended
These are very small lamps with a bulb about 3mm diameter and 6mm long. Take care to avoid snapping the wires where they enter the glass bulb.

Photograph © Rapid Electronics

Wire ended lamp
Grain of Wheat
These are similar to the wire ended lamps above but they have stranded wire leads usually about 150mm long. The bulb is about 3mm diameter and 6mm long - the size of a grain of wheat!

Photograph © Rapid Electronics

Grain of wheat lamp
Click here for Rapid Electronics Rapid Electronics stock a wide range of lamps and they have kindly allowed me to use their photographs on this page. The photographs are from their Image Gallery CD-ROM.

lampholder lampholder
screw terminals solder tags
Lampholders

Photographs © Rapid Electronics

Connecting and soldering

Lamps may be connected either way round in a circuit and the supply may be AC or DC.

Most lamps are designed to be used in a lampholder but the small 'wire ended' and 'grain of wheat' lamps have wires which may be soldered directly onto a circuit board.

Lampholders usually have screw terminals or solder tags to attach wires. Some small holders have contacts which may be soldered directly to a circuit board.

Lamps in Series

Lamps in series Several lamps can be successfully connected in series provided they all have identical voltage and power (or current) ratings. The supply voltage is divided equally between identical lamps so their voltage rating must be suitable for this. For example Christmas tree lights may have 20 lamps connected in series to a 240V supply, so each lamp will have 240V ÷ 20 = 12V across it.

A disadvantage of connecting lamps in series is that if one lamp blows all of them will go out because the circuit is broken. Christmas tree lamps have a special feature to overcome this problem; they are designed to short circuit (conduct like a wire link) when they blow, so the circuit is not broken and the other lamps remain lit, making it easier to locate the faulty lamp. Sets also include one 'fuse' lamp which blows normally.

555 and 556 Timer Circuits

 

Inputs | Output | Astable | Duty Cycle | Monostable | Edge-trigger | Bistable | Buffer

Next Page: Counting Circuits
Also See: ICs (chips) | Capacitance | AC, DC and Electrical Signals

Introduction

555 circuit symbol
Example circuit symbol (above)

Actual pin arrangements (below)

555 and 556 pins
There is more information about
555 timers and their circuits on the
Electronics in Meccano website.
The 8-pin 555 timer must be one of the most useful ICs ever made and it is used in many projects. With just a few external components it can be used to build many circuits, not all of them involve timing!

A popular version is the NE555 and this is suitable in most cases where a '555 timer' is specified. The 556 is a dual version of the 555 housed in a 14-pin package, the two timers (A and B) share the same power supply pins. The circuit diagrams on this page show a 555, but they could all be adapted to use one half of a 556.

Low power versions of the 555 are made, such as the ICM7555, but these should only be used when specified (to increase battery life) because their maximum output current of about 20mA (with a 9V supply) is too low for many standard 555 circuits. The ICM7555 has the same pin arrangement as a standard 555.

The circuit symbol for a 555 (and 556) is a box with the pins arranged to suit the circuit diagram: for example 555 pin 8 at the top for the +Vs supply, 555 pin 3 output on the right. Usually just the pin numbers are used and they are not labelled with their function.

The 555 and 556 can be used with a supply voltage (Vs) in the range 4.5 to 15V (18V absolute maximum).

Standard 555 and 556 ICs create a significant 'glitch' on the supply when their output changes state. This is rarely a problem in simple circuits with no other ICs, but in more complex circuits a smoothing capacitor (eg 100µF) should be connected across the +Vs and 0V supply near the 555 or 556.

The input and output pin functions are described briefly below and there are fuller explanations covering the various circuits:

  • Astable - producing a square wave
  • Monostable - producing a single pulse when triggered
  • Bistable - a simple memory which can be set and reset
  • Buffer - an inverting buffer (Schmitt trigger)
Datasheets are available from:

Inputs of 555/556

555 circuit symbol Trigger input: when < 1/3 Vs ('active low') this makes the output high (+Vs). It monitors the discharging of the timing capacitor in an astable circuit. It has a high input impedance > 2Mohm.

Threshold input: when > 2/3 Vs ('active high') this makes the output low (0V)*. It monitors the charging of the timing capacitor in astable and monostable circuits. It has a high input impedance > 10Mohm.
* providing the trigger input is > 1/3 Vs, otherwise the trigger input will override the threshold input and hold the output high (+Vs).

Reset input: when less than about 0.7V ('active low') this makes the output low (0V), overriding other inputs. When not required it should be connected to +Vs. It has an input impedance of about 10kohm.

Control input: this can be used to adjust the threshold voltage which is set internally to be 2/3 Vs. Usually this function is not required and the control input is connected to 0V with a 0.01µF capacitor to eliminate electrical noise. It can be left unconnected if noise is not a problem.

The discharge pin is not an input, but it is listed here for convenience. It is connected to 0V when the timer output is low and is used to discharge the timing capacitor in astable and monostable circuits.


555 and 556 output sinking and sourcing
connecting a loudspeaker to 555 and 556 outputs
555 and 556 output protection

Output of 555/556

The output of a standard 555 or 556 can sink and source up to 200mA. This is more than most ICs and it is sufficient to supply many output transducers directly, including LEDs (with a resistor in series), low current lamps, piezo transducers, loudspeakers (with a capacitor in series), relay coils (with diode protection) and some motors (with diode protection). The output voltage does not quite reach 0V and +Vs, especially if a large current is flowing.

To switch larger currents you can connect a transistor.

The ability to both sink and source current means that two devices can be connected to the output so that one is on when the output is low and the other is on when the output is high. The top diagram shows two LEDs connected in this way. This arrangement is used in the Level Crossing project to make the red LEDs flash alternately.

Loudspeakers

A loudspeaker (minimum resistance 64ohm) may be connected to the output of a 555 or 556 astable circuit but a capacitor (about 100µF) must be connected in series. The output is equivalent to a steady DC of about ½Vs combined with a square wave AC (audio) signal. The capacitor blocks the DC, but allows the AC to pass as explained in capacitor coupling.

Piezo transducers may be connected directly to the output and do not require a capacitor in series.

Relay coils and other inductive loads

Like all ICs, the 555 and 556 must be protected from the brief high voltage 'spike' produced when an inductive load such as a relay coil is switched off. The standard protection diode must be connected 'backwards' across the the relay coil as shown in the diagram.

However, the 555 and 556 require an extra diode connected in series with the coil to ensure that a small 'glitch' cannot be fed back into the IC. Without this extra diode monostable circuits may re-trigger themselves as the coil is switched off! The coil current passes through the extra diode so it must be a 1N4001 or similar rectifier diode capable of passing the current, a signal diode such as a 1N4148 is usually not suitable.


Top of page | Inputs | Output | Astable | Duty Cycle | Monostable | Edge-trigger | Bistable | Buffer

555/556 Astable

555 astable output
555 astable output, a square wave
(Tm and Ts may be different)
555 astable circuit
555 astable circuit
An astable circuit produces a 'square wave', this is a digital waveform with sharp transitions between low (0V) and high (+Vs). Note that the durations of the low and high states may be different. The circuit is called an astable because it is not stable in any state: the output is continually changing between 'low' and 'high'.

The time period (T) of the square wave is the time for one complete cycle, but it is usually better to consider frequency (f) which is the number of cycles per second.

T = 0.7 × (R1 + 2R2) × C1 and f = 1.4
(R1 + 2R2) × C1

T = time period in seconds (s)
f = frequency in hertz (Hz)
R1 = resistance in ohms (ohm)
R2 = resistance in ohms (ohm)
C1 = capacitance in farads (F)

The time period can be split into two parts: T = Tm + Ts
Mark time (output high): Tm = 0.7 × (R1 + R2) × C1
Space time (output low): Ts = 0.7 × R2 × C1

Many circuits require Tm and Ts to be almost equal; this is achieved if R2 is much larger than R1.

For a standard astable circuit Tm cannot be less than Ts, but this is not too restricting because the output can both sink and source current. For example an LED can be made to flash briefly with long gaps by connecting it (with its resistor) between +Vs and the output. This way the LED is on during Ts, so brief flashes are achieved with R1 larger than R2, making Ts short and Tm long. If Tm must be less than Ts a diode can be added to the circuit as explained under duty cycle below.

Choosing R1, R2 and C1

555 astable frequencies
C1 R2 = 10kohm
R1 = 1kohm
R2 = 100kohm
R1 = 10kohm
R2 = 1Mohm
R1 = 100kohm
0.001µF 68kHz 6.8kHz 680Hz
0.01µF 6.8kHz 680Hz 68Hz
0.1µF 680Hz 68Hz 6.8Hz
1µF 68Hz 6.8Hz 0.68Hz
10µF 6.8Hz 0.68Hz
(41 per min.)
0.068Hz
(4 per min.)
R1 and R2 should be in the range 1kohm to 1Mohm. It is best to choose C1 first because capacitors are available in just a few values.
  • Choose C1 to suit the frequency range you require (use the table as a guide).
  • Choose R2 to give the frequency (f) you require. Assume that R1 is much smaller than R2 (so that Tm and Ts are almost equal), then you can use:
    R2 = 0.7
    f × C1
  • Choose R1 to be about a tenth of R2 (1kohm min.) unless you want the mark time Tm to be significantly longer than the space time Ts.
  • If you wish to use a variable resistor it is best to make it R2.
  • If R1 is variable it must have a fixed resistor of at least 1kohm in series
    (this is not required for R2 if it is variable).

Astable operation

555 astable operation With the output high (+Vs) the capacitor C1 is charged by current flowing through R1 and R2. The threshold and trigger inputs monitor the capacitor voltage and when it reaches 2/3Vs (threshold voltage) the output becomes low and the discharge pin is connected to 0V.

The capacitor now discharges with current flowing through R2 into the discharge pin. When the voltage falls to 1/3Vs (trigger voltage) the output becomes high again and the discharge pin is disconnected, allowing the capacitor to start charging again.

This cycle repeats continuously unless the reset input is connected to 0V which forces the output low while reset is 0V.

An astable can be used to provide the clock signal for circuits such as counters.

A low frequency astable (< 10Hz) can be used to flash an LED on and off, higher frequency flashes are too fast to be seen clearly. Driving a loudspeaker or piezo transducer with a low frequency of less than 20Hz will produce a series of 'clicks' (one for each low/high transition) and this can be used to make a simple metronome.

An audio frequency astable (20Hz to 20kHz) can be used to produce a sound from a loudspeaker or piezo transducer. The sound is suitable for buzzes and beeps. The natural (resonant) frequency of most piezo transducers is about 3kHz and this will make them produce a particularly loud sound.

Duty cycles

Duty cycle

The duty cycle of an astable circuit is the proportion of the complete cycle for which the output is high (the mark time). It is usually given as a percentage.

For a standard 555/556 astable circuit the mark time (Tm) must be greater than the space time (Ts), so the duty cycle must be at least 50%:

Duty cycle = Tm = R1 + R2
Tm + Ts R1 + 2R2

555 astable circuit with diode across R2
555 astable circuit with diode across R2
To achieve a duty cycle of less than 50% a diode can be added in parallel with R2 as shown in the diagram. This bypasses R2 during the charging (mark) part of the cycle so that Tm depends only on R1 and C1:

Tm = 0.7 × R1 × C1 (ignoring 0.7V across diode)
Ts = 0.7 × R2 × C1 (unchanged)

Duty cycle with diode = Tm = R1
Tm + Ts R1 + R2

Use a signal diode such as 1N4148.


Example projects using 555 astable: Flashing LED | Dummy Alarm | Heart-shaped Badge | 'Random' Flasher
Top of page | Inputs | Output | Astable | Duty Cycle | Monostable | Edge-trigger | Bistable | Buffer

555/556 Monostable

555 monostable output
555 monostable output, a single pulse
555 monostable circuit
555 monostable circuit with manual trigger
A monostable circuit produces a single output pulse when triggered. It is called a monostable because it is stable in just one state: 'output low'. The 'output high' state is temporary.

The duration of the pulse is called the time period (T) and this is determined by resistor R1 and capacitor C1:

time period, T = 1.1 × R1 × C1

T = time period in seconds (s)
R1 = resistance in ohms (ohm)
C1 = capacitance in farads (F)
The maximum reliable time period is about 10 minutes.

Why 1.1? The capacitor charges to 2/3 = 67% so it is a bit longer than the time constant (R1 × C1) which is the time taken to charge to 63%.

  • Choose C1 first (there are relatively few values available).
  • Choose R1 to give the time period you need. R1 should be in the range 1kohm to 1Mohm, so use a fixed resistor of at least 1kohm in series if R1 is variable.
  • Beware that electrolytic capacitor values are not accurate, errors of at least 20% are common.
  • Beware that electrolytic capacitors leak charge which substantially increases the time period if you are using a high value resistor - use the formula as only a very rough guide!
    For example the Timer Project should have a maximum time period of 266s (about 4½ minutes), but many electrolytic capacitors extend this to about 10 minutes!

Monostable operation

555 monostable operation The timing period is triggered (started) when the trigger input (555 pin 2) is less than 1/3 Vs, this makes the output high (+Vs) and the capacitor C1 starts to charge through resistor R1. Once the time period has started further trigger pulses are ignored.

The threshold input (555 pin 6) monitors the voltage across C1 and when this reaches 2/3 Vs the time period is over and the output becomes low. At the same time discharge (555 pin 7) is connected to 0V, discharging the capacitor ready for the next trigger.

The reset input (555 pin 4) overrides all other inputs and the timing may be cancelled at any time by connecting reset to 0V, this instantly makes the output low and discharges the capacitor. If the reset function is not required the reset pin should be connected to +Vs.

power-on reset or trigger circuit
Power-on reset or
trigger circuit

Power-on reset or trigger

It may be useful to ensure that a monostable circuit is reset or triggered automatically when the power supply is connected or switched on. This is achieved by using a capacitor instead of (or in addition to) a push switch as shown in the diagram.

The capacitor takes a short time to charge, briefly holding the input close to 0V when the circuit is switched on. A switch may be connected in parallel with the capacitor if manual operation is also required.

This arrangement is used for the trigger in the Timer Project.

Edge-triggering

edge-trigger circuit
edge-triggering circuit
If the trigger input is still less than 1/3 Vs at the end of the time period the output will remain high until the trigger is greater than 1/3 Vs. This situation can occur if the input signal is from an on-off switch or sensor.

The monostable can be made edge triggered, responding only to changes of an input signal, by connecting the trigger signal through a capacitor to the trigger input. The capacitor passes sudden changes (AC) but blocks a constant (DC) signal. For further information please see the page on capacitance. The circuit is 'negative edge triggered' because it responds to a sudden fall in the input signal.

The resistor between the trigger (555 pin 2) and +Vs ensures that the trigger is normally high (+Vs).


Example projects using 555 monostable: Adjustable Timer | Electronic 'Lock' | Light-sensitive Alarm
Top of page | Inputs | Output | Astable | Duty Cycle | Monostable | Edge-trigger | Bistable | Buffer

555/556 Bistable (flip-flop) - a memory circuit

555 bistable circuit
555 bistable circuit
The circuit is called a bistable because it is stable in two states: output high and output low. It is also known as a 'flip-flop'.

It has two inputs:

  • Trigger (555 pin 2) makes the output high.
    Trigger is 'active low', it functions when < 1/3 Vs.
  • Reset (555 pin 4) makes the output low.
    Reset is 'active low', it resets when < 0.7V.
The power-on reset, power-on trigger and edge-triggering circuits can all be used as described above for the monostable.

Example projects using 555 bistable: Quiz | Model Railway Signal


Top of page | Inputs | Output | Astable | Duty Cycle | Monostable | Edge-trigger | Bistable | Buffer

555/556 Inverting Buffer (Schmitt trigger) or NOT gate

555 buffer circuit
555 inverting buffer circuit
(a NOT gate)
NOT gate symbol
NOT gate symbol
The buffer circuit's input has a very high impedance (about 1Mohm) so it requires only a few µA, but the output can sink or source up to 200mA. This enables a high impedance signal source (such as an LDR) to switch a low impedance output transducer (such as a lamp).

It is an inverting buffer or NOT gate because the output logic state (low/high) is the inverse of the input state:

  • Input low (< 1/3 Vs) makes output high, +Vs
  • Input high (> 2/3 Vs) makes output low, 0V
When the input voltage is between 1/3 and 2/3 Vs the output remains in its present state. This intermediate input region is a deadspace where there is no response, a property called hysteresis, it is like backlash in a mechanical linkage. This type of circuit is called a Schmitt trigger.

If high sensitivity is required the hysteresis is a problem, but in many circuits it is a helpful property. It gives the input a high immunity to noise because once the circuit output has switched high or low the input must change back by at least 1/3 Vs to make the output switch back.

Studying Electronics

 

This is the section to browse for the theoretical side of electronics.

You can use the list below to go direct to one of the pages, but if you are new to electronics you may like to view them in the order given below by following the Next Page link at the bottom of each page - in which case Start Here! There are special pages of links for
the AQA's Test in Electronics and
the Scout Electronics Activity Badge
to help you study for these.
Some pages will be useful if you are studying electricity as part of a GCSE Science course.
Remember to check the Frequently Asked Questions too!
Components: information on their function and identification can be found on these pages:

Site Map

  • (this page)
  • Contact

  • Projects - PDF versions of all projects are available for easy printing

  • Construction of Projects

  • Studying Electronics

  • Components

  • Welcome to the Electronics Club

     



    Click here for Dummy Alarm project Click here for Traffic Light project Click here for Dice project

    Build a project

    Learn how to solder and build one of our projects.

    Identify components

    Find out how to identify components including
    resistors, capacitors, diodes and LEDs.
    Test them with our component tester project.

    Read a circuit diagram

    Follow our section on studying electronics
    and learn the circuit symbols.

    Breadboard

     

    Also see: Stripboard | PCB | Types of Circuit Board

    Download PDF version of this page

    Breadboard, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    Small Breadboard
    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    Uses of Breadboard

    A breadboard is used to make up temporary circuits for testing or to try out an idea. No soldering is required so it is easy to change connections and replace components. Parts will not be damaged so they will be available to re-use afterwards.

    Almost all the Electronics Club projects started life on a breadboard to check that the circuit worked as intended.

    The photograph shows a typical small breadboard which is suitable for beginners building simple circuits with one or two ICs (chips). Larger sizes are available and you may wish to buy one of these to start with.


    Connections on Breadboard

    Breadboards have many tiny sockets (called 'holes') arranged on a 0.1" grid. The leads of most components can be pushed straight into the holes. ICs are inserted across the central gap with their notch or dot to the left.

    Wire links can be made with single-core plastic-coated wire of 0.6mm diameter (the standard size). Stranded wire is not suitable because it will crumple when pushed into a hole and it may damage the board if strands break off.

    The diagram shows how the breadboard holes are connected: Connections on breadboard

    The top and bottom rows are linked horizontally all the way across as shown by the red and black lines on the diagram. The power supply is connected to these rows, + at the top and 0V (zero volts) at the bottom.

    I suggest using the upper row of the bottom pair for 0V, then you can use the lower row for the negative supply with circuits requiring a dual supply (e.g. +9V, 0V, -9V).

    The other holes are linked vertically in blocks of 5 with no link across the centre as shown by the blue lines on the diagram. Notice how there are separate blocks of connections to each pin of ICs.

    Large Breaboards
    On larger breadboards there may be a break halfway along the top and bottom power supply rows. It is a good idea to link across the gap before you start to build a circuit, otherwise you may forget and part of your circuit will have no power!


    Building a Circuit on Breadboard

    Converting a circuit diagram to a breadboard layout is not straightforward because the arrangement of components on breadboard will look quite different from the circuit diagram.

    When putting parts on breadboard you must concentrate on their connections, not their positions on the circuit diagram. The IC (chip) is a good starting point so place it in the centre of the breadboard and work round it pin by pin, putting in all the connections and components for each pin in turn.

    555 monostable circuit diagram
    Monostable Circuit Diagram
    The best way to explain this is by example, so the process of building this 555 timer circuit on breadboard is listed step-by-step below.

    The circuit is a monostable which means it will turn on the LED for about 5 seconds when the 'trigger' button is pressed. The time period is determined by R1 and C1 and you may wish to try changing their values. R1 should be in the range 1kohm to 1Mohm.

    Time Period, T = 1.1 × R1 × C1

    For further information please see 555 monostable.

    IC pin numbers

    IC pin numbers

    IC pins are numbered anti-clockwise around the IC starting near the notch or dot. The diagram shows the numbering for 8-pin and 14-pin ICs, but the principle is the same for all sizes.


    Components without suitable leads

    Soldering leads onto switches Some components such as switches and variable resistors do not have suitable leads of their own so you must solder some on yourself. Use single-core plastic-coated wire of 0.6mm diameter (the standard size). Stranded wire is not suitable because it will crumple when pushed into a hole and it may damage the board if strands break off.


    Building the example circuit

    Begin by carefully insert the 555 IC in the centre of the breadboard with its notch or dot to the left.

    Then deal with each pin of the 555:

    Monostable Circuit on Breadboard
    Monostable Circuit on Breadboard
    1. Connect a wire (black) to 0V.
    2. Connect the 10k resistor to +9V.
      Connect a push switch to 0V (you will need to solder leads onto the switch)
    3. Connect the 470 resistor to an used block of 5 holes, then...
      Connect an LED (any colour) from that block to 0V (short lead to 0V).
    4. Connect a wire (red) to +9V.
    5. Connect the 0.01µF capacitor to 0V.
      You will probably find that its leads are too short to connect directly, so put in a wire link to an unused block of holes and connect to that.
    6. Connect the 100µF capacitor to 0V (+ lead to pin 6).
      Connect a wire (blue) to pin 7.
    7. Connect 47k resistor to +9V.
      Check: there should be a wire already connected to pin 6.
    8. Connect a wire (red) to +9V.
    Finally...
    • Check all the connections carefully.
    • Check that parts are the correct way round (LED and 100µF capacitor).
    • Check that no leads are touching (unless they connect to the same block).
    • Connect the breadboard to a 9V supply and press the push switch to test the circuit.
    If your circuit does not work disconnect (or switch off) the power supply and very carefully re-check every connection against the circuit diagram

    Types of Circuit Board

     

    Also see: Breadboard | Stripboard | PCB

    If you are building a project from this website or a magazine the type of circuit board will have been decided for you. The three most important types are described below:


    Breadboard, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    Breadboard

    Temporary, no soldering required

    This is a way of making a temporary circuit, for testing purposes or to try out an idea. No soldering is required and all the components can be re-used afterwards. It is easy to change connections and replace components. Almost all the Electronics Club projects started life on a breadboard to check that the circuit worked as intended.

    For further details please see the Breadboard page.


    Stripboard

    Stripboard circuit Permanent, soldered

    Stripboard has parallel strips of copper track on one side. The strips are 0.1" (2.54mm) apart and there are holes every 0.1" (2.54mm). Stripboard requires no special preparation other than cutting to size. It can be cut with a junior hacksaw, or simply snap it along the lines of holes by putting it over the edge of a bench or table and pushing hard.

    For further details please see the Stripboard page.


    PCB circuit

    Printed Circuit Board

    Permanent, soldered

    Printed circuit boards have copper tracks connecting the holes where the components are placed. They are designed specially for each circuit and make construction very easy. However, producing the PCB requires special equipment so this method is not recommended if you are a beginner unless the PCB is provided for you.

    Switches

     

    Switch Contacts - pole, throw etc.
    Standard Switches - SPST, SPDT, DPST, DPDT.
    Special Switches - multiway, key, tilt, reed etc.

    Also see: Relays | Series and Parallel Connections - Switches

    on-off switch symbol
    Circuit symbol for a
    simple on-off switch

    Selecting a Switch

    There are three important features to consider when selecting a switch:
    • Contacts (e.g. single pole, double throw)
    • Ratings (maximum voltage and current)
    • Method of Operation (toggle, slide, key etc.)

    Switch Contacts

    Several terms are used to describe switch contacts:
    • Pole - number of switch contact sets.
    • Throw - number of conducting positions, single or double.
    • Way - number of conducting positions, three or more.
    • Momentary - switch returns to its normal position when released.
    • Open - off position, contacts not conducting.
    • Closed - on position, contacts conducting, there may be several on positions.
    For example: the simplest on-off switch has one set of contacts (single pole) and one switching position which conducts (single throw). The switch mechanism has two positions: open (off) and closed (on), but it is called 'single throw' because only one position conducts.

    Switch Contact Ratings

    Switch contacts are rated with a maximum voltage and current, and there may be different ratings for AC and DC. The AC values are higher because the current falls to zero many times each second and an arc is less likely to form across the switch contacts.

    For low voltage electronics projects the voltage rating will not matter, but you may need to check the current rating. The maximum current is less for inductive loads (coils and motors) because they cause more sparking at the contacts when switched off.


    Standard Switches

    Type of Switch Circuit Symbol Example
    ON-OFF
    Single Pole, Single Throw = SPST

    A simple on-off switch. This type can be used to switch the power supply to a circuit.

    When used with mains electricity this type of switch must be in the live wire, but it is better to use a DPST switch to isolate both live and neutral.

    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    SPST on-off switch symbol SPST toggle switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    SPST toggle switch
    (ON)-OFF
    Push-to-make = SPST Momentary

    A push-to-make switch returns to its normally open (off) position when you release the button, this is shown by the brackets around ON. This is the standard doorbell switch.

    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    push-to-make switch symbol Push-to-make switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    Push-to-make switch
    ON-(OFF)
    Push-to-break = SPST Momentary

    A push-to-break switch returns to its normally closed (on) position when you release the button.

    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    push-to-break switch symbol Push-to-break switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    Push-to-break switch
    ON-ON
    Single Pole, Double Throw = SPDT

    This switch can be on in both positions, switching on a separate device in each case. It is often called a changeover switch. For example, a SPDT switch can be used to switch on a red lamp in one position and a green lamp in the other position.

    A SPDT toggle switch may be used as a simple on-off switch by connecting to COM and one of the A or B terminals shown in the diagram. A and B are interchangeable so switches are usually not labelled.

    ON-OFF-ON
    SPDT Centre Off
    A special version of the standard SPDT switch. It has a third switching position in the centre which is off. Momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON) versions are also available where the switch returns to the central off position when released.

    Photographs © Rapid Electronics

    SPDT switch symbol SPDT toggle switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    SPDT toggle switch

    SPDT slide switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    SPDT slide switch
    (PCB mounting)

    SPDT rocker switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    SPDT rocker switch

    Dual ON-OFF
    Double Pole, Single Throw = DPST

    A pair of on-off switches which operate together (shown by the dotted line in the circuit symbol).

    A DPST switch is often used to switch mains electricity because it can isolate both the live and neutral connections.

    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    DPST switch symbol DPST rocker switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    DPST rocker switch
    Dual ON-ON
    Double Pole, Double Throw = DPDT

    A pair of on-on switches which operate together (shown by the dotted line in the circuit symbol).

    A DPDT switch can be wired up as a reversing switch for a motor as shown in the diagram.

    ON-OFF-ON
    DPDT Centre Off
    A special version of the standard SPDT switch. It has a third switching position in the centre which is off. This can be very useful for motor control because you have forward, off and reverse positions. Momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON) versions are also available where the switch returns to the central off position when released.

    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    DPDT switch symbol DPDT slide switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    DPDT slide switch

    Reversing switch

    Wiring for Reversing Switch

    Click here for Rapid Electronics Rapid Electronics stock a wide range of switches and they have kindly allowed me to use their photographs on this page. The photographs are from their Image Gallery CD-ROM.

    Special Switches

    Type of Switch Example
    Push-Push Switch (e.g. SPST = ON-OFF)

    This looks like a momentary action push switch but it is a standard on-off switch: push once to switch on, push again to switch off. This is called a latching action.

    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    Push-push switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    Microswitch (usually SPDT = ON-ON)

    Microswitches are designed to switch fully open or closed in response to small movements. They are available with levers and rollers attached.

    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    Microswitch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    Keyswitch

    A key operated switch. The example shown is SPST.

    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    Keyswitch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    Tilt Switch (SPST)

    Tilt switches contain a conductive liquid and when tilted this bridges the contacts inside, closing the switch. They can be used as a sensor to detect the position of an object. Some tilt switches contain mercury which is poisonous.

    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    Tilt switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    Reed Switch (usually SPST)

    The contacts of a reed switch are closed by bringing a small magnet near the switch. They are used in security circuits, for example to check that doors are closed. Standard reed switches are SPST (simple on-off) but SPDT (changeover) versions are also available.

    Warning: reed switches have a glass body which is easily broken! For advice on handling please see the Electronics in Meccano website.

    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    Reed switches photograph © Rapid Electronics
    DIP Switch (DIP = Dual In-line Parallel)

    This is a set of miniature SPST on-off switches, the example shown has 8 switches. The package is the same size as a standard DIL (Dual In-Line) integrated circuit.

    This type of switch is used to set up circuits, e.g. setting the code of a remote control.

    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    DIP switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    Multi-pole Switch

    The picture shows a 6-pole double throw switch, also known as a 6-pole changeover switch. It can be set to have momentary or latching action. Latching action means it behaves as a push-push switch, push once for the first position, push again for the second position etc.

    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    Multi-pole switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
    Multi-way Switch

    Multi-way switches have 3 or more conducting positions. They may have several poles (contact sets). A popular type has a rotary action and it is available with a range of contact arrangements from 1-pole 12-way to 4-pole 3 way.

    The number of ways (switch positions) may be reduced by adjusting a stop under the fixing nut. For example if you need a 2-pole 5-way switch you can buy the 2-pole 6-way version and adjust the stop.

    Contrast this multi-way switch (many switch positions) with the multi-pole switch (many contact sets) described above.

    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    Connectors and Cables

     

    Connectors: Battery clips | Terminal blocks | Croc clips | 4mm & 2mm | DC power

    Audio & communication: Jack | Phono | Coax | BNC | DIN | D | IDC & RJ45

    Cables: Single-core | Stranded | 'Figure 8' | Signal | Screened | Co-axial | Mains flex


    battery clip
    battery holder
    Photographs © Rapid Electronics

    Battery clips and holders

    The standard battery clip fits a 9V PP3 battery and many battery holders such as the 6 × AA cell holder shown. Battery holders are also available with wires attached, with pins for PCB mounting, or as a complete box with lid, switch and wires.

    Many small electronic projects use a 9V PP3 battery but if you wish to use the project for long periods a better choice is a battery holder with 6 AA cells. This has the same voltage but a much longer battery life and it will work out cheaper in the long run.

    Larger battery clips fit 9V PP9 batteries but these are rarely used now.


    PCB terminal block connector block
    PCB
    terminal
    block
    Terminal block

    Photographs © Rapid Electronics

    Terminal blocks and PCB terminals

    Terminal blocks are usually supplied in 12-way lengths but they can be cut into smaller blocks with a sharp knife, large wire cutters or a junior hacksaw. They are sometimes called 'chocolate blocks' because of the way they can be easily cut to size.

    PCB mounting terminal blocks provide an easy way of making semi-permanent connections to PCBs. Many are designed to interlock to provide more connections.


    Crocodile clips

    crocodile clip insulated crocodile clip
    Crocodile clips
    Photographs © Rapid Electronics
    The 'standard' crocodile clip has no cover and a screw contact. However, miniature insulated crocodile clips are more suitable for many purposes including test leads. They have a solder contact and lugs which fold down to grip the cable's insulation, increasing the strength of the joint. Remember to feed the cable through the plastic cover before soldering! Add and remove the cover by fully opening the clip, a piece of wood can be used to hold the jaws open.

    4mm stackable plug
    4mm sockets

    4mm terminal
    and solder tag

    4mm terminal
    solder tag
    Photographs © Rapid Electronics

    4mm plugs, sockets and terminals

    These are the standard single pole connectors used on meters and other electronic equipment. They are capable of passing high currents (typically 10A) and most designs are very robust. Shrouded plugs and sockets are available for use with high voltages where there is a risk of electric shock. A wide variety of colours is available from most suppliers.

    Plugs
    Plugs may have a screw or solder terminal to hold the cable. Check if you need to thread the cable through the cover before connecting it. Some plugs, such as those illustrated, are 'stackable' which means that they include a socket to accept another plug, allowing several plugs to be connected to the same point - a very useful feature for test leads.

    Sockets
    These are usually described as 'panel mounting' because they are designed to be fitted to a case. Most sockets have a solder contact but the picture shows other options. Fit the socket in the case before attaching the wire otherwise you will be unable to add the mounting nut.

    Terminals
    In addition to a socket these have provision for attaching a wire by threading it through a hole (or wrapping it around the post) and tightening the top nut by hand. They usually have a threaded stud to fit a solder tag inside the case.


    2mm stackable plug
    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    2mm plugs and sockets

    These are smaller versions of the 4mm plugs and sockets described above, but terminals are not readily available. The plugs illustrated are stackable. Despite their small size these connectors can pass large currents and some are rated at 10A.

    DC power plugs and sockets

    DC power plug DC power socket
    Photographs © Rapid Electronics
    These 2-pole plugs and sockets ensure that the polarity of a DC supply cannot be accidentally reversed. The standard sizes are 2.1 and 2.5mm plug diameter. Standard plugs have a 10mm shaft, 'long' plugs have a 14mm shaft. Sockets are available for PCB or chassis mounting and most include a switch on the outer contact which is normally used to disconnect an internal battery when a plug is inserted.

    Miniature versions with a 1.3mm diameter plug are used where small size is essential, such as for personal cassette players.


    jack plug ¼ inch jack socket ¼ inch
    ¼" (6.3mm) jack plug and socket
    3.5mm jack plug 3.5mm jack socket
    3.5mm jack plug and socket
    3.5mm jack line socket
    3.5mm jack line socket
    (for fitting to a cable)

    Photographs © Rapid Electronics

    Jack plugs and sockets

    These are intended for audio signals so mono and stereo versions are available. The sizes are determined by the plug diameter: ¼" (6.3mm), 3.5mm and 2.5mm. The 2.5mm size is only available for mono.

    Screened plugs have metal bodies connected to the COM contact. Most connections are soldered, remember to thread cables through plug covers before soldering! Sockets are designed for PCB or chassis mounting.

    ¼" plug connections are similar to those for 3.5mm plugs shown below. ¼" socket connections are COM, R and L in that order from the mounting nut, ignore R for mono use. Most ¼" sockets have switches on all contacts which open as the plug is inserted so they can be used to isolate internal speakers for example.

    The connections for 3.5mm plugs and sockets are shown below. Plugs have a lug which should be folded down to grip the cable's insulation and increase the strength of the joint. 3.5mm mono sockets have a switch contact which can be used to switch off an internal speaker as the plug is inserted. Ignore this contact if you do not require the switching action.

    jack plug and socket connections
    3.5mm jack plug and socket connections
    (the R connection is not present on mono plugs)

    L = left channel signal
    R = right channel signal
    COM = common (0V, screen)

    Do not use jack plugs for power supply connections because the contacts may be briefly shorted as the plug is inserted. Use DC power connectors for this.


    phono plugs
    phono socket
    Photographs © Rapid Electronics

    Phono plugs and sockets

    These are used for screened cables carrying audio and video signals. Stereo connections are made using a pair of phono plugs and sockets. The centre contact is for the signal and the outer contact for the screen (0V, common). Screened plugs have metal bodies connected to the outer contact to give the signal additional protection from electrical noise. Sockets are available for PCB or chassis mounting, singly for mono, or in pairs for stereo. Line sockets are available for making extension leads.
    screened cable
    Construction of a screened cable


    coax plug coax socket
    Photographs © Rapid Electronics

    Coax plugs and sockets

    These are similar to the phono plugs and sockets described above but they are designed for use with screened cables carrying much higher frequency signals, such as TV aerial leads. They provide better screening because at high frequencies this is essential to reduce electrical noise.

    BNC plug
    BNC plug, photograph © Rapid Electronics

    BNC plugs and sockets

    These are designed for screened cables carrying high frequency signals where an undistorted and noise free signal is essential, for example oscilloscope leads. BNC plugs are connected with a push and twist action, to disconnect you need to twist and pull.

    Plugs and sockets are rated by their impedance (50ohm or 75ohm) which must be the same as the cable's impedance. If the connector and cable impedances are not matched the signal will be distorted because it will be partly reflected at the connection, this is the electrical equivalent of the weak reflection which occurs when light passes through a glass window.


    DIN plug
    DIN plug
    DIN socket
    5 way 180° DIN socket
    (chassis mounting)
    Photographs © Rapid Electronics

    DIN plugs and sockets

    These are intended for audio signals but they can be used for other low-current purposes where a multi-way connector is required. They are available from 3 way to 8 way. 5 way is used for stereo audio connections. The contacts are numbered on the connector, but they are not in numerical order! For audio use the 'common' (0V) wire is connected to contact 2. 5 way plugs and sockets are available in two versions: 180° and 270° (the angle refers to the arc formed by the contacts).

    Plastic covers of DIN plugs (and line sockets) are removed by depressing the retaining lug with a small screwdriver. You may also need small pliers to extract the body from the cover but do not pull on the pins themselves to avoid damage. Remember to thread the cable through the cover before starting to solder the connections!

    Soldering DIN plugs is easier if you clamp the insert with the pins. Wires should be pushed into the hollow pins - first 'tin' the wires (coat them with a thin layer of solder) then melt a little solder into the hollow pin and insert the wire while keeping the solder molten. Take care to avoid melting the plastic base, stop and allow the pin to cool if necessary.

    Mini-DIN connectors are used for computer equipment such as keyboards and mice but they are not a good choice for general use unless small size is essential.


    D plug
    D cover
    D socket, high density
    Photographs © Rapid Electronics

    D connectors

    These are multi-pole connectors with provision for screw fittings to make semi-permanent connections, for example on computer equipment. The D shape prevents incorrect connection. Standard D-connectors have 2 rows of contacts (top picture); 9, 15 and 25-way versions are the most popular. High Density D-connectors have 3 rows of contacts (bottom picture); a 15-way version is used to connect computer monitors for example.

    Note that covers (middle picture) are usually sold separately because both plugs and sockets can be fitted to cables by fitting a cover to a chassis mounted connector. PCB mounting versions of plugs and sockets are also available. The contacts are usually numbered on the body of the connector, although you may need a magnifying glass to see the very small markings. Soldering D-connectors requires a steady hand due to the closeness of the contacts, it is easy to accidently unsolder a contact you have just completed while attempting to solder the next one!


    IDC plugs
    IDC socket
    Photographs © Rapid Electronics

    IDC communication connectors

    These multi-pole insulation displacement connectors are used for computer and telecommunications equipment. They automatically cut through the insulation on wires when installed and special tools are required to fit them. They are available as 4, 6 and 8-way versions.

    The 8-way RJ45 is the standard connector for modern computer networks. If you regularly use these you may be interested in our network lead tester project.

    Standard UK telephone connectors are similar in style but a slightly different shape. They are called BT (British Telecom) connectors.


    Cables

    Cable... flex... lead... wire... what do all these terms mean?
    • A cable is an assembly of one or more conductors (wires) with some flexibility.
    • A flex is the proper name for the flexible cable fitted to mains electrical appliances.
    • A lead is a complete assembly of cable and connectors.
    • A wire is a single conductor which may have an outer layer of insulation (usually plastic).

    Single core equipment wire

    single core wire This is one solid wire with a plastic coating available in a wide variety of colours. It can be bent to shape but will break if repeatedly flexed. Use it for connections which will not be disturbed, for example links between points of a circuit board.

    Typical specification: 1/0.6mm (1 strand of 0.6mm diameter), maximum current 1.8A.


    Stranded wire

    stranded wire This consists of many fine strands of wire covered by an outer plastic coating. It is flexible and can withstand repeated bending without breaking. Use it for connections which may be disturbed, for example wires outside cases to sensors and switches. A very flexible version ('extra-flex') is used for test leads.

    Typical specifications:
    10/0.1mm (10 strands of 0.1mm diameter), maximum current 0.5A.
    7/0.2mm (7 strands of 0.2mm diameter), maximum current 1.4A.
    16/0.2mm (16 strands of 0.2mm diameter), maximum current 3A.
    24/0.2mm (24 strands of 0.2mm diameter), maximum current 4.5A.
    55/0.1mm (55 strands of 0.1mm diameter), maximum current 6A, used for test leads.


    'Figure 8' (speaker) cable

    figure 8 cable
    Photograph © Rapid Electronics
    'Figure 8' cable consists of two stranded wires arranged in a figure of 8 shape. One wire is usually marked with a line. It is suitable for low voltage, low current (maximum 1A) signals where screening from electrical interference is not required. It is a popular choice for connecting loudspeakers and is often called 'speaker cable'.

    signal cable
    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    Signal cable

    Signal cable consists of several colour-coded cores of stranded wire housed within an outer plastic sheath. With a typical maximum current of 1A per core it is suitable for low voltage, low current signals where screening from electrical interference is not required.

    The picture shows 6-core cable, but 4-core and 8-core are also readily available.


    screened cable
    Screened cable (mono)
    stereo screened cable
    Screened cable (stereo)
    stereo screened cable
    Screened cable (stereo)
    Photographs © Rapid Electronics

    Screened cable

    The diagram shows the construction of screened cable. The central wire carries the signal and the screen is connected to 0V (common) to shield the signal from electrical interference. Screened cable is used for audio signals and dual versions are available for stereo.

    screened cable
    Construction of a screened cable


    coaxial cable
    Photograph © Rapid Electronics

    Co-axial cable

    This type of screened cable (see above) is designed to carry high frequency signals such as those found in TV aerials and oscilloscope leads.

    Mains flex

    mains flex, 3 way
    Photograph © Rapid Electronics
    Flex is the proper name for the flexible cable used to connect appliances to the mains supply. It contains 2 cores (for live and neutral) or 3 cores (for live, neutral and earth). Mains flex has thick insulation for the high voltage (230V in UK) and it is available with various current ratings: 3A, 6A and 13A are popular sizes in the UK.

    Mains flex is sometimes used for low voltage circuits which pass a high current, but please think carefully before using it in this way. The distinctive colours of mains flex should act as a warning of the mains high voltage which can be lethal; using mains flex for low voltage circuits can undermine this warning.